Taxi! – Show me London please. Fast.

London Event Reviews by May B

International and domestic tourists usually want to see the sights in the City but often Londoners themselves feel the need to take in a bit more about their home town. There are numerous ways to do this – from a bus, walking, in a boat and even on an amphibious vehicle. I’ve sampled some Blue Badge Guides and even themed walks (the City for photographers was excellent). So this time I went to see London icons from a London icon – a Black Cab.

Graham Greenglass runs London Cab Tours http://www.londoncabtours.co.uk/about-graham-greenglass/. He’s a history graduate. He’s a Londoner. He’s a regular black cab drivers so he’s done his three years of “The Knowledge” as well as a qualification as a taxi tour guide for the Worshipful Company of Hackney Carriage Drivers – so he’s actually a part of London’s Livery Hall history. Fabulous.

Flexible pick up and itinery

The neat thing about a taxi tour is that Graham can pick you up (and drop you off) from just about wherever you want to start your London tour. I nominated Waterloo station.
He has a number of themed tours – obviously the highlights takes in all those places you would expect to see in London, but there’s also rock and roll, horror stories and Dickens & Shakespeare options. He can be persuaded to do tailored tours – he talked a little about Jewish London and Art and Galleries adventures. And he doesn’t seem to mind too much if you want to do a bit of a pick and mix.

As I’m fairly well informed about London – having been born here and spent most of my working life pinging around the West End, the City and Canary Wharf – I suggested that we do some highlights and add in flavours of some of the other popular tours.

Horizontal history – St James’ Palace and Baby George

Graham explained that his tours are historically horizontal – he prefers to give people an overview of lots of different things and only delves deeper if asked. So he started with a story about the death of King Charles I and drove us past the Houses of Parliament towards St James’ Palace which he said was “the great ignored building”.

As we journeyed down The Mall there were insights into architecture connecting Carlton House Terrace and Buckingham Palace. We parked up outside St James’ Palace and looked at two empty guard boxes – indicating that the Queen wasn’t home.

After inviting me to have my photo taken in one of them, Graham popped into the back of the cab, armed with his iPad, and shared some photos of the Royal Standard and other pictures of this part of London from times gone by (there were woodlands here don’t you know?).

And he bought things right up to date by indicating the chapel where Prince George was so recently Christened. When I gently tested his knowledge about the buildings I was provided with insights into Henry VIII’s 55 palaces and London bricks.

Royal shopping and Government offices

There was another brief stop outside Lobb’s where Graham explained about the Royal Warrants system and indicated where various male members of the current royal family purchase their shoes and shaving paraphernalia. The London (formerly male only) clubs were pointed out to me on Pall Mall.

Then another stop at Horse Guard’s Parade where I learned about Whitehall Palace, saw the rear fences of the 10 Downing Street gardens and admired historical pictures showing how the view had barely changed since 1760 despite a fire in 1698. Graham was full of interesting snippets and insights and even commented on the shift of power from royalty to Government – just as we were passing the Foreign Office and Treasury buildings.

Westminster Abbey and Princess Anne

On the road again I was told a little about Westminster Abbey – where so many Great Brits are laid to rest. And was told about how Westminster Hall was the longest surviving (900 years) part.

Just as we went around Parliament Square we were temporarily stopped as a Police escort hurried through Princess Anne. Graham commented that there were often such sightings on his tours which pleased tourists and Londoners alike.

Back to the story and on Whitehall Graham pointed out the three balconies on Banqueting House and the black dot on the clock and briefly told the story of the English Civil War and how Charles I kept escaping. While telling me about the trial and execution which had taken place right where we were, Graham showed me images of great paintings of the events on his iPad. It really bought the story and history to life.

Go East

We agreed that we would go East as it’s a part of London that I’ve always wanted to explore more. So we set off down the Embankment until we reached Monument (I didn’t know about Wren’s flaming orb on the top) and a story about the Great Fire of London. I was fascinated by a 1572 map he showed me on his iPad of the original wall of London and another one showing the area affected by the fire in 1666.

Onwards we ventured, looking at the actual remains of the wall at Tower Hill and briefly talking about the Tower of London. Then we drove through some of the newer residential developments in Wapping where I learned about how the high walls were a legacy of those who wanted to protect the treasures in the docks and wharves.

He pulled up near Wapping Old Stairs East where The Town of Ramsgate pub stood. I tiptoed down this narrow alley and was astonished to find steps down to the Thames beach. Graham explained that he was happy to take visitors onto the shore where they could mudlark and find oyster shells and bits of pottery.

He also chatted about how criminals at sea were tried and executed here – and then went on to talk about St Giles execution days and the origins of phrases such as “on the wagon” and “one for the road”. Fascinating.

Criminals in Fleet Street

Most people know Fleet Street for its media history. But Graham told me about Alsatia – South of Fleet Street – which was a criminal underworld some 400 and 500 years ago. He then journeyed along Chancery Lane with stories of lawyers until we entered into the quiet green oasis that is Lincoln’s Inn Fields.

Graham proved knowledgeable about the Inns of Court and Inner and Outer Temples and we chatted a while about legal London. Finally, as I had requested, Graham dropped me off just near Covent Garden for my next appointment.
Really good value for money

Most of Graham’s tours last three hours. However, he can do a two hour tour with prices starting from £95 (£140 for three hours). So if you have five people in the cab that works out at less than £20 per person. A bargain! Especially when it would cost you pretty much the same just to hire a taxi and drive around for two hours at your request. Plus you have the ability to request a stop for the loos, to stretch your legs, explore a little further or to take photos whenever YOU want. Even to pop into a particularly appealing shop. And you don’t have to worry about the rain and cold. And of course he can extend the time and show you even more of London. And will even venture out to places such as Hampton Court and Windsor if you are a palace fan.

Next time I have international business visitors who want to squeeze in some sightseeing into their impossibly busy business schedule, I shall be giving Graham a call. I am also thinking of the sort of tour I might do with some of my friends…foodies, fashion, journos and animal lovers – the mind boggles while London awaits.

http://www.londoncabtours.co.uk/

Posted Date
Jan 11, 2014 in London Event Reviews by May B by May B