London's oldest restaurants

Rules, 1798
It’s hard to believe that a restaurant that still exists today opened when Napoleon was alive. It is said that Thomas Rule was a bit of a rakeish character when he promised his family he would come good by setting up this restaurant; no one could have envisaged it would still be going strong over 200 years later. It has specialised in oysters, pies and porter ale from the beginning, and has attracted many illustrious figures such as Charles Dickens, William Makepeace Thackeray and Charles Chaplin. The menu continues to offer traditional British cuisine, benefitting from owning an estate in the High Pennines that provides them with game.

Simpsons-in-the-Strand, 1828
When Simpsons-in-the-Strand first opened it was a cigar and chess club that also served food. In order to not disturb the players’ attention the tradition of wheeling meat dishes on trolleys and carving at the tables began, something which they still do today. Another rule was that all menu items had to be British, and little has changed – today their offering includes dishes like London particular (ham and pea soup), oxtail faggot, and roast beef. One of the world’s most famous hotels, the Savoy, has operated the restaurant since 1898.

Wiltons, 1840 (pictured)
The history of Wiltons actually begins in 1742, when George William Wilton set up a stall in Haymarket selling shellfish. The stall grew to become a fishmongers and in 1840 the restaurant proper was opened on Ryder Street, with oysters as a specialty (in 1884 they were named Purveyor of Oysters to Queen Victoria). In 1942 while bombs were dropping in the area, diner Olaf Hambro requested that the restaurant be added to his bill; the Hambro family have owned the restaurant ever since. They moved premises several times throughout the 20th century, landing at their current location on Jermyn Street in 1984. A classic English restaurant, it’s a favourite of MPs and aristocrats.

Wheeler’s of St. James, 1856
Once upon a time fish restaurant Wheeler's was in direct competition with Wiltons. The same classic food was on the menu like oysters and fish pie, and diners were equally renowned members of the literary world, politics or the aristocracy. In the 1930s it was acquired by French cook Madame Prunier, an expert in preparing fish who published books on the subject. Unlike Wiltons, Wheeler’s changed ownership many times and had periods of closure. In 2009 Marco Pierre White re-opened the restaurant, with added financial backing from Sir Rocco Forte, the luxury hotelier whose portfolio includes, among others, Brown’s Hotel. The partnership expanded the brand so that Wheeler’s restaurants can now be found dotted all over the English countryside, however the original London site was recently sold and remains closed for refurbishment with an uncertain future.

Kettner’s, 1867
In its heyday Auguste Kettner’s restaurant had a reputation for debauchery and a glamorous clientele that included Oscar Wilde, Edward VII, and many stars of the stage. The private dining room was used by King Edward and his mistress Lille Langtry, and they claim he even commissioned a secret passage to be built connecting the Palace Theatre and the restaurant, to enable the discretion of their liaisons. Many years on from this, the French menu was replaced by pizza as Pizza Express purchased the restaurant. As incongruous as it seemed, the combination of cheap pizza and decadent surroundings was a highly successful one. More recently Kettner’s was relaunched as a brasserie, as they’ve attempted to recapture some of their historic charm.

Other long-running restaurants
Criterion, 1883
This supremely opulent restaurant has seen the likes of Winston Churchill, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and Bertrand Russell pass through its doors.

Elysee, 1936
George Varnava worked as Maitre D’ at the Savoy before opening this, the first Greek restaurant in London. Popular with celebrities and royal families over the years, remarkably Elysee is still owned by the same family.

Gay Hussar, 1953
It wouldn’t be necessary for the walls to talk at this veteran Hungarian restaurant, for the late owner Victor Sassie was known to spread details of the goings-on of his diners, who included politicians and journalists.

Manna, 1966
The first vegetarian restaurant in the capital, they tentatively say they may well also have been the first meat-free eatery in Europe. The menu is now completely vegan, with raw food dishes available too.