Bertorelli

With three established restaurants set around London, Bertorelli is Italian with an added edge of quirky class. Right now, they are welcoming the spring with their new menu; a plethora of stunning antipasti, pasta, carne and pesce secondi, as well as a satisfying array of deserts.

From the somewhat unexpected zebra pattern armchairs and light fittings to the gleaming wine glasses and candle light, this is a relaxing and worthwhile experience. On entering, there is a calm, collected impression of soft colours and black and white prints on the walls – it is gently humming, perfect to step into from a chill April evening in the west end.

To kick off the evening, there are a wide range of cocktails available, both your reliable staples as well as some sophisticated and champagne options. If you prefer a bottle, there is a great choice of sparkling wines, including a deliciously sweet and fresh prosecco. Soft drinks include ginger ale and bitter lemon and well as your usual pop and juice and a selection of fruity ‘mocktails’.

The food is Italian at its most glamorous end. The new menu offers a single course (£9.95), selection of two (13.95) or a full three-course extravaganza (15.95), so there’s plenty of room to hit the right tone for your evening.

The standard bread in a basket is fresh and springy, with a hint of salt and deliciously flavored with olives. They also have a slightly moister darker bread with a yeasty taste evocative of olive groves, cool Italian evenings, crickets and stars above the cypresses.

The starters include Burrata Pugliese, Puglia’s creamiest mozzarella served with plum tomatoes and basil oil. It is indeed creamy, and vast; three huge slabs of perfect consistency placed over fresh, sweet tomatoes. There is also Pepata di Cozze, a dish of mussels and clams steamed in white wine and chili with garlic and parsley. Or Parma ham and rocket – although this is not for the meat shy as the portion size is immense.

There are a wide choice of mains, that range widely away from the basic pasta you might expect to seared line caught tuna steak with plum tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, black olives, wild rocket and Sardinian bread. There is also a quail and grape risotto, squid ink pasta, and a butternut squash, faro and goats cheese salad. The duck ragu with ribbon pasta is gorgeously rich, and there is a stunning smoky asparagus risotto that goes down very easily. The sides of green salad and root vegetables are sturdy and a perfect compliment to the tastes of the meal.

One of the nicest things about this restaurant however is that the staff treat you as guests. They go out of their way to be helpful while at the same time being respectful of space. The creativity in the menu is reflected in their knowledge of the food – they are more than willing to suggest combinations that bring out the very best of what is on offer.

To close the night, there is a desert menu that offers even more varieties of taste, including tiramisu, and smooth gelato ice cream with sorbet. To the last, the portion sizes are something to be reckoned with. There is no question of value for money here.

Bertorelli’s is a pleasant surprise, and a gem among what the west end has to offer.