Name: Four O Nine
Address: 409 Clapham Road (entrance on Landor Road), London, Clapham, SW9 9BT, UK
Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7737 0722

Having arrived early at Clapham North tube station I was encouraged to see the huge Clapham North pub right in front of me (complete with some active construction/restoration works on the top of the building) – I knew that the 409 restaurant was above it so I thought I’d check out the mojitos in the pub while I waited for my friend. Good mojito. The bar was great too – lots of space, a few tables and chairs outside, some comfortably worn high backed Chesterfield sofas and armchairs in one corner, some high rise open booths and ordinary wood tables scattered elsewhere and a great, friendly crowd of young trendy folk and helpful, happy staff (despite one of them having “psycho” tattooed on her arm).

Once my friend had arrived and also sampled a cocktail we went in search of the restaurant. We walked out the front of the pub towards the sign that said “409” and found the wall sign. And ended up walking back into the rear of the pub. Foxed! So out we went again and realised that we had to press the door button to gain entry to the restaurant. Ooooh – nice touch.

We were buzzed in and walked up the new but very tasteful black floor tile steps to a small dark wood patio area which felt just a bit like the veranda of a hunting lodge. I was pleased to know that I wasn’t going to have to tackle the door bell/steps thing if I wanted to slip out for a sneaky cigarette.

Through a door and along a quietly lit corridor to be welcomed by the maitre d’ who had a foreign accent but was friendliness and politeness, with a genuine warm smile, personified. Entering the dining room was a delightful experience. The ceilings are low and with dark wood cross-beams (hiding nice lighting) and numerous tables are relatively close together – with many at the sides of the room looking out of dark painted windows onto the tree tops outside. Whilst one wall had a dark flock paper the others had subtly screened brown tinged photo images of roads and buildings. Together with the traditional brass candle holders on the table I swear I felt as if I had just walked into a bijou eaterie in Paris. The breeze from the open windows confirmed this feeling. Really unexpected, but truly good.

At 730 the place was about half full and the other guests were split equally between couples and small groups of four or five people. From around 25 years of age or so – some dressed very casually (jeans) but others had clearly made rather an effort. I forgot how nice it was to be somewhere where you could dress up and not feel out of place. It was neither too loud nor too quiet – it was a gentle hum of background noise, suitably intimate but not smaltzy romantic.

There is a cocktail menu – and you can constantly hear the distant bar man shaking up concoctions. But the wine list is impressive. And goes on for pages. At first I was disappointed to see the limited selection of “by the glass” but then noticed that it was possible to obtain glasses from elsewhere in the menu. There really is something to please everyone here – from those who are just thirsty to those who are wine experts. My friend chose a Mendoza Malbec rose (£5.50) and I selected ‘The Warhorse’ chenin blanc (£5). The waiter constantly refilled my tap water glass without prompting and without intruding.

Perfect bite sized canapés appeared – cherry tomatoes and chorizo in the mix. A selection of breads was offered – the walnut is to be recommended. We admired the lovely cutlery – which fitted together in a really pleasing way (even the forks “spooned”).

For a starter I selected the St Ives hand picked crab with carrot, coriander and horseradish crème fraiche (£8). Beautifully presented, the crunch of the thinly julienned carrot was the perfect texture with the white crab meat and the delicately flavoured creamy sauce. My colleague opted for the pan fried sardine fillets with watercress, watermelon, black olives and chilli oil (£7.50). This time I was transported to Spain – the sardines (with the merest hint of lemon and chilli in their perfectly cooked and deboned butterfly fillets) were so fresh I could almost smell the sea air.

My friend was a tad concerned that they hadn’t asked how she wanted her salt marsh lamb leg (£17) cooked – but needn’t have worried as it was perfect pink. It arrived with a rondel of fondant potato, trompettes and apricot marmalade. It was a triumph. And a generous sized portion as well.

My roast hake with samphire, garden peas, girolle and basil cream mascarpone (£16.50) was equally delicious – and the chef had provided more samphire as requested as I knew my friend was going to help herself. And I couldn’t resist ordering a side of triple cooked chips (£3) – totally unnecessary really but I just had to try them. Good call. This meal was truly good.

At this point I popped up to the loos – a metropolitan affair that would be more familiar in a West End night club where men and women share the handbasin and mirror area. And I know that I am a sucker for the little details but I adored that they had L’Occitane hand wash – fabulous scent.

Without space for dessert – although the options were tempting (amaretto roast flat peach, raspberry pannacotta, grilled pineapple with mojito spirit) – I was moved to order an espresso martini (single espresso shaken with vanilla vodka, kalhua and vanilla sugar - £7.50). And it was amazing. The most incredible way to end an excellent meal – right down to the coffee beans carefully arranged on the top. My friend had requested mint tea and was impressed when it arrived in a lovely white pot with a pretty arrangement of fresh mint leaves on the top.

The bill came to £100.13 which included service. By 9pm the place was almost entirely full of couples – of most ages and backgrounds – although me and my friend, as a couple of women, did not feel at all uncomfortable. Everyone was minding their own business – no doubt as transfixed by the marvellous food as we were.

From all the reviews I have done, I think this is one of only three 9s I have ever awarded (I’m afraid I just don’t believe in a perfect 10!) which shows how truly impressed both I and my companion were. The four o nine scores on every level – the environment, the atmosphere, the food, the wine, the value for money and the tremendous service. If you haven’t been then I thoroughly recommend that you do at the earliest opportunity – there are few restaurants of this sort in central London that can match the four o nine experience.

Four O Nine

Children Welcome

Credit Cards Accepted

Music Played

Booking Advisable

Four O Nine Picture Gallery

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