Name: Tapas Revolution Shoreditch
Address: 58 Bethnal Green Road, London, Shoreditch, E1 8JW, UK
Rating: 9

I really like shopping at Westfield. There, I’ve said it. But eating there is a bit strange – lots of chain restaurants – but it is in the context of a shopping trip rather than a night-out destination.

However, I ventured there on a weekday evening to try out Tapas Revolution – which is meant to be a hot new concept (only two months old) in Spanish style eating – a quick coffee, breakfast or a few nibbles of tapas. Some might even grab a takeaway hit of “Chocolate con churros” (£2.95) which are long thin Spanish doughnuts with a hot, dark smooth chocolate dip. Oh my!

But as tapas is one of my favourites, and I was accompanied by a good friend who has spent more time in Spain than most – and as my daughter was happily ensconced in Barcelona – we thought we’d have an evening meal there.

It’s not like a normal restaurant. It’s an open booth in the middle of a mall (on the mezzanine, just outside Hollister – so you can hang out here happily while your teens do their thing there) and the music from the nearby stores assaults your ears rather than the dulcet tones of rural or urban Spain. You sit on high stools (black for narrow folk, red for those who are broader or who want to share) in a down blast of super-effective air conditioning against a steel bar which is beautifully decorated with garlands of dried chilli, garlic bulbs and delicious looking hams. OK. So I have gotten over the downside – the location. But the rest is all really, really good. The food is incredible. I ever spied some lone Spanish diners here – so it must be good.

A glass of water from a rustic carafe and a no-nonsense tumbler full of Solarena Barrel Aged Tempranillo Carinena 2008 (£4.25) for me (really smooth) and a Cala, Sauvignon Blanc/Muscat, Catalunya 2009 (£4.50) for my companion – both of which were excellent – and we studied the red star studded placemat menus. The wine list is small and exclusively Spanish but there’s a good selection of Spanish beers too or you could go completely native and select a glass of sherry.

With tapas, you order a series of small dishes – as many as you feel able to eat. And then add some more if necessary. Trouble is, there are so many favourites that I simply have to have and yet I am always keen to try some new ones too. So here goes with our selection:

Tortilla de patatas (£3.95) A substantial, firm chunk of warmed potato omelette with a dipping mayonnaise. This was one of the first things I learned to cook from a Spanish chef about 30 years ago and consider myself an expert (at least in terms of what I like). It was surprisingly light. Full marks.

Patatas bravas (£3.50) Saute potatoes (soft rather than crispy) with a tomato sauce and a little kick. As you would expect.

Jamon Iberico (£8.25) A plate of thinly sliced ham. There were many to choose from. This acorn fed version was a delight – not too salty, fine and light flavour.

Manchego and quince jelly (£5.95) A hard cheese that I am partial to as it always reminds me of breakfast on a terrace in Southern Spain with a sunny sea view. The quince jelly was firm and subtle.

Pinchos morunos (£5.75) Marinated rib-eye skewers. A meat eaters delight. Tender and delicious chunks of meat.

Boquerones (£4.50) Anchovies marinated in olive oil, garlic and parsley. It takes over nine hours to prepare these fishy little delights and it is well worth the effort – presented in a tiny glass pot. My friend was ecstatic with this dish and proclaimed it “the best in the UK”. That’s a strong endorsement.

Carrilleras (£5.75) I wouldn’t normally choose braised pork cheeks – it just doesn’t sound very appetising – but this, for me, was the highlight of the meal. Meat that has been marinated and then slow cooked for three hours. No fat, just beautifully tender meat – tasting more like beef than pork. Spectacular.

Most of the dishes were presented on tiny chopping boards and with dipping sauces in tiny bowls. Really lovely to look at – and a good size to arrange around you while you blend flavours and graze.

The chef (Omar Allibhoy – who Gordon Ramsey describes as the “Antonio Banderas of cooking” and he was NOT kidding but girls, he’s happily married so don’t imagine you will do more than gaze longingly) – who has to work in distant kitchens (a bit of a logistical nightmare I should imagine) whose father is in the coffee business – is a scarily young, passionate (about food) Spaniard who employs only Spanish speaking staff – although some are from South America and the United States.

Manuel, the manager, and his team are excellent hosts – tending to their diners in a friendly, relaxed and charming manner (although the service is super fast bearing in mind many folk are passing through) and answering inane questions with good grace - they really are keen for visitors to experience rustic Spanish food.

I had to try the coffee. The cortado (in Spanish this means something like “cut” – only a little milk – so like a macchiato) at £1.95 arrived in a small glass and was perfect. My colleagues café con leche £2.25 was in a slightly larger glass and equally good.

If this food – which I would rate at a 9 – were available in a restaurant where I could linger in Covent Garden or the City, I would be a frequent flier. And whilst the actual bar/area for Tapas Revolution was lovely, it’s location in the midst of shopping melee means that I have downgraded it a little overall. However, if you are ever wondering where to get a perfect coffee or an authentic, tasty Spanish bite whilst waiting for others to shop then this is absolutely your place.

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