Name: Donostia
Address: 10 Seymour Place, London, Marylebone, W1H 5DB, UK
Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7402 6209
Rating: 9

London’s newest tapas eatery has chef Tomasz Baranski at the helm, formerly of the hugely successful Barrafina, Fino and Brindisa no less. “Donostia” is the Basque name for San Sebastian, therefore the focus is on food from this northernmost region of Spain - Baranski even undertook prep work at two restaurants in the Basque Country before setting up this new venture. It’s no wonder Donostia has been so hotly tipped.

We start with the pintxos, bite-sized food on skewers. As soon as we clap eyes on the croquetas we know they are going to be good; golden and fluffy, they are exceptionally creamy, with salty ham and a coating of crispy breadcrumbs. The tender octopus has a slightly tangy dressing with paprika that soaks into a piece of toasted bread, and the pan-fried foie gras is amazingly rich, with a dribble of a vinegar reduction and a couple of walnuts adorning the plate; dishes are impeccably presented too.

The pork shoulder is phenomenal: rare in the middle, with a thin layer of fat surrounding it to retain its juices, it’s an immensely pleasurable hunk of meat, and the almond-based Romesco sauce is an added bonus. We are told the cod cheeks are their most popular dish, and it soon becomes obvious why – the cod’s soft meatiness is paired with a delicious dressing made with the natural gelatin that oozes out of the cod during cooking, the result is a silky, lightly garlicky oil.

Other good dishes are the fried asparagus with Manchego shavings and a sprinkling of salt flakes, and the pigeon, also rare in the middle, strong-flavoured and very tender. For dessert we have the lemon tart. The top is blow-torched like a crème brûlée, covering a lemony custard, and the pastry base is doughy yet firm.

As with most tapas restaurants the bill depends on how hungry you are. Here dishes start from £3 for pintxos rising to £18 for the Jabugo ham, hand carved in front of you. In terms of wine, the owners run their own winery, where roughly half the varieties on offer come from. We pick a mineral, crisp Albariño from Galicia which is £27, although they also have Txakoli, a dry, slightly sparkling white from the Basque region.

The restaurant itself is very minimalist, as the real spectacle is at the bar - grab a countertop seat and you’ll be treated to the goings-on of the kitchen. Dishes come out with startling speed, and what we initially think might be a quick meal gets longer as we order more food, drink more wine, and avidly watch the chefs at work. Donostia is a real treat for both the tastebuds and the eyes.

Donostia

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