Squeeze into snugs for rounds of punch or pull up a bar stool and sip on a favourite whiskey from the list curated by Bar Manager, Spencer Large (Barbecue). Refuel with items from NUALA Bar’s grocery list, including potted smokie, scampi-fried quail eggs and coffee ham with Irish condiments.
Nuala Restaurant and Bar
British Restaurant in Shoreditch
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Website
http://nualalondon.com/
All In London Review
Made to measure pizzas by the silicon roundabout
Meter's large space is sparsely furnished, divided up with rough vertical wooden batons. The tables have been nicely separated, and it is unlikely you are going to eavesdrop on your neighbours’ chit-chat, creating a suitably calming ambience as you gaze out of the large windows on to the street scene outside. The toilets still have the scutty bar feel of its former incarnation and could do with a good spruce up, but hey, that's Shoreditch for you.
All this would seem pretty so-so if the food were not up to scratch, which happily it is. With an authentic Naples chef – and pizza oven – the menu is focused on that city's cuisine, with a drinks list (including cocktails) to match.
Of the fried 'fritti', the sharing snack plates of provola (smoked buffalo mozzarella) with honey went down a treat, as did the 'pizelle pomodora', which was effectively deep fried pizza dough with tomato topping. Pizza doughnuts, what a marvellous idea! Who needs garlic bread when you can have that? Would I have room left for a main I was wondering, after scoffing all three myself.
Pizzas are served 'per 0.25m', hence the name, which, in case you were wondering, is plenty big enough for one person, so best not go ordering two metres’ worth just to see what it looks like. Pizza-philes should be happy here; the Napoli pizza had its trademark sourdough base, creating a soft crust and moist filling towards the centre. Starting from £7 for a Margherita up to £12, they are keenly priced amid your run-of-the-mill Italian chains.
My dining companion's rump steak served with rosemary potatoes was a fine piece of meat and good value at £12, but came a little overcooked for the medium-rare requested. There are salad options you can order as a starter or main, and other tempting antipasti such as Speck ham with Pecorino, and asparagus with Parma ham.
If you don't like coffee the choice of desserts may disappoint, but the vanilla ice cream with a shot of espresso was good, served in a cocktail glass making it reminiscent of the fabled espresso martini, albeit without the vodka. The 'pera cotta' sadly seemed to lose its ginger, cinnamon and pear flavours to an overriding sugar hit.
Despite being slap bang next to the so-called 'silicon roundabout', this side of the Old Street area can feel a bit impersonal, so this light and airy bar and restaurant is a welcome addition. I'd be happy to return and work my way through some of the other options on the menu.
Reviewed by Matthew B
Published on May 25, 2012
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