From the outset Just St James is a striking affair, housed in a former Banking Hall on St James Street and with the kind of décor to make any country gent proud. This restaurant, bar and brasserie combines modern British gourmet cuisine in the ostentatious dining area with more affordable Pan Asian cuisine and Dim Sum in the ‘Just Oriental’ bar and brasserie downstairs.
The menu is a delight for any enthusiast of British quality produce, and head Chef Damien Pondevie appears to be unashamed in his appreciation of game and fowl, with dishes such as Pan Fried Wood Pigeon Breasts with Damson Tart, and Whole Oven Baked Grouse. Nevertheless my vegetarian dining companion was also well catered for, and whilst I admired a richly smooth Foie Gras Parfait with Pear & Apple Chutney she sampled the Wild Mushrooms on Toast with Rocket and Truffle Oil, the truffle oil lending the mushrooms a most rich, almost nutty flavour.
Between courses I glanced around trying to compose a picture of the diners in attendance. A mature crowd plus the odd young couple dined here, the restaurant’s swirling shape around the downstairs leading staircase conveniently allowing for privacy.
Our mains arrived, seemingly on the small side, however in fact surprisingly filling. The Highland Venison Haunch was in fact a rather large portion cut into small pieces and piled high on a potato rosti, served with fig chutney. Always a little weary of ordering meat in case it doesn’t arrive cremated, the venison had been cooked well and was perfectly complemented by the chutney. My companions’ Golden Beetroot and Stilton tart was also more filling than it appeared to be, and possibly the most triumphant dish of them all, the strength of the Stilton hinted at through the crunchiness of the beetroot.
To finish off we ordered deserts of Cox’s Orange Pippin Apple Crème Brulee, and White Chocolate and Cardamom Mousse Ice Cream. The Crème Brulee arrived in one dish whilst the apple confit arrived in another; blended together they were delicious despite seeming to be an odd combination at first. The cardamom’s taste was not apparent in the mousse but unexpectedly it was the white chocolate ice cream that stole the show.
After our meal we wondered downstairs to the dimly lit Just Oriental, and perused the cocktail menu, which proved to be exciting both for the drinks on offer and the prices, the latter more in tune with those of an average West End cocktail bar than a swanky Mayfair venue, however thankfully lacking the hustle and bustle of neighbours Soho and Fitrovia. From Mojitos and Daiquiris to extravagances such as a St James Rouge consisting of Disaronno Amaretto, passion fruit, raspberry puree and vodka, or for chocolate lovers, the Tiramisu, with Cognac shaken with Kahlua, chocolate liqueur and cream; there are cocktails for all palates.
Just St James is a very interesting concept which has brought together the high end of dining with affordable drinking in a stylish venue. A three course meal for two with wine is approximately £120, a hefty yet deserved price tag. To experience the ambience, I recommend the elegant bar, which remains pleasantly relaxed even on weekend nights, and if one gets peckish also serves oriental specialities and a two course menu for only £9.95.
