Bistro One Ninety

Luxury hotel the Gore has had many celebs sleep on its four poster beds over the years. The restaurant, Bistro One Ninety, with its chandelier and gold-framed mirrors is plush enough for any A-lister - even if some do prefer to get sushi delivered to their rooms like a certain former boyband member.

It was opened by Antony Worral-Thompson in 1990, before he found fame on Ready Steady Cook; another famous TV chef, James Martin, began his career here. Nowadays the head chef is Francesco Eccher, who’s responsible for delivering a very competent modern British menu.

There’s a handy pre-theatre selection (the Royal Albert Hall is just a couple of minutes’ walk away) priced at £26.95 for three courses. Among the starters there’s a smooth asparagus velouté with a blob of asparagus mousse, and tender rolled pork on rye sourdough with apple and a dollop of crème fraiche. Flaky poached haddock is served with a bean cassoulet that benefits from having been cooked in a thick, flavoursome stock, while a simple white lasagne is supremely rich, enveloped in béchamel and filled with veal ragù. The only thing that doesn’t quite work is the carrot sorbet, its woodiness does nothing for an otherwise very good, creamy pana cotta.

The menu’s consideration for smart food at accessible prices is echoed by the wine list, as there is a good selection by the glass as well as fine vintages to please the big spenders.