Browns

Strangely, I found myself here twice within a month. It’s just so central and convenient you see. And reliable. And reasonably priced. Like a comfy pair of shoes that still look good enough to impress even if they are not cutting edge fashion.

It’s just two minutes’ walk from Leicester Square tube station and so handy for a host of delights (including all the theatres and galleries) in Covent Garden and Trafalgar Square.

The place is huge. And traditional. Towering ceilings to create a sense of occasion. Just a hint of banking hall. Quite grand. Formal wooden tables to make it feel special. Numerous pillars and alcoves to add intimacy. And all wrapped up in a warm informality.

On my last visit, our evening was made all the more enjoyable because of a charming young waiter who’s wit and self-confidence endeared him to us. Our choice of wine wasn’t available so he recommended an alternative – a New Zealand Vidal Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (£20.95). And it was excellent.

The menu is extensive. There are lots of starters – everything from classic Caesar salad (£4.95), duck liver parfait (£6.95) to pan seared scallops (£9.45) and carpaccio of seared tuna (£8.95). There are many choices in the salads, fish, pasta and vegetarian menus (although a vegan would struggle) and the classics and grills menu is extensive – steak, mushroom and Guinness pie (£11.95), braised shoulder of lamb (£16.95), 21 day aged Sirloin steak (£19.95) and fillet of Venison Rossini (£22.95).

On my previous visit, I had enjoyed the fish and chips (£12.95) and my companion had complimented the fish pie (£13.95). On this visit, I choose the Brown’s burger (£11.95) which arrived with chips in a bucket and accompaniments. My colleague had the special lamb rack (£11.95) and generated a clean plate.

Adding in some olives at the start (£2.95), the bill came to £52.30 which didn’t include service.

It does breakfast and brunch, afternoon tea and there’s an impressive range of cocktails. It’s a bit of a trek to the loos downstairs but a good opportunity to see the many different people who eat here – couples, office workers, tourists, theatre goers and just about everyone else. The Courtrooms upstairs are great for events – especially if you want that legal and regal angle.