Chez Gerard At The Opera Terrace

"The best steak frites this side of Paris” they say. Well, say I, “That depends”. It’s certainly a good place for steak frites although I did have one occasion when my steak was distinctly tough and inedible. Whilst I didn’t make a fuss, the staff were mortified that I hadn’t eaten it and asked why I hadn’t complained – they offered me an alternative which I declined and they removed my main course from the bill without me asking.

However, apart from that bad experience I do like Chez Gerard. Mostly I frequent the branch in Chancery Lane – rather formal but good for business lunches. Mind you, the al fresco area is a bit of a disappointment there – practically a walled yard.

Occasionally, I go to the one on the South Bank near Waterloo – which is huge and canteen like. And with a really diverse clientele – foreign tourists, business people, couples having supper before or after the theatre, shoppers, teenagers, older couples. And I used to be practically a regular at the Opera Terrace in Covent Garden (great location – especially if it’s a warm evening and you do sit out on the terrace, lapping up the ambience of the busy piazza below although it does tend to get rather warm inside when the weather is good).

I like that each of the restaurants is a little bit different. It makes it less like a chain. There is an extensive menu – and a good wine list – although I nearly always have a steak. And, apart from the occasion mentioned above, is usually cooked rather well. And the frites are fabulous.

There is a good selection of starters. I usually have the crab and brown shrimp timbale (although sometimes it is so cold that the taste is affected) at £7.95, the gravadlax (£6.75) or the goat’s cheese (£5.95). All delicious. One of my dining companions had the snails once (portions either £4.25 or £7.95) although I can’t say whether they were good or not. Whilst there is a good choice of fish and vegetarian mains (for a French restaurant) I always go for a steak. Either the onglet (£12.95) or sirloin (£18.50). I rarely have room for a dessert (eat too many of those delicious fries and sides) but it’s a mouth watering selection and I admit that on one or two occasions I have given into gluttony for the crème brulee.