Orso

For a long time, this was my favourite Italian restaurant. And it’s a long established place in the heart of Covent Garden (not far from its sister establishment which is probably more famous – Joe Allens). The walk into the darker depths of the place and the tiled walls downstairs – reminiscent of a converted public lavatory – always used to feel like coming home.

Whilst it is labelled “Modern Italian” the crockery, food and portion sizes always shouted “rustic” to me. It’s usually very busy (although the ambient noise is not uncomfortable) – business people, couples, friends, shoppers, theatre goers, tourists and even family groups. And a reassuring number of Italians. All life is here. It’s certainly not cheap, but your dinner here would probably be the main event of your evening and I used to like it for relaxed special occasions – particularly when out with the girls.

The menus change regularly but appetizers usually include some old favourites like parma ham and rocket salad as well as more unusual dishes such as roast veal with capers, dandelion, broad bean, cherry tomato and pecorino salad and steamed mussels with garlic, parsley and hot pepper.

Example main courses are roast halibut with braised fennel, venison steaks, chicken with tomatoes, olives and rosemary and sirloin steak. I usually have a pasta dish though (e.g. linguine with tiger prawns, garlic, parsley, tomato and white wine). I rarely get round to desserts but these seem more exotic than the starters and mains.

And, of course, they only serve Italian wine.