Balls Brothers Lime Street in London’s Square Mile is British to its fingertips. The famous vintners’ restaurants are popular haunts throughout the City – this one is practically the staff canteen for the Lloyds folk across the street.
The trad moss-green dining room with its starchy linens, leather upholstered chairs, antique bookcases, framed prints and sconces is very like a gentlemen’s club. And the Balls Brothers menu offers the best of Blighty’s cooking: pan-fried calves’ liver with crispy bacon and bubble and squeak, and steak and kidney pudding with wild watercress mash are signatures.
Richard Balls’ wine list ranges from skint to bonus and everything’s good.