"A most exquisite treat"

Added Thu 09 Oct 2008 by Leila

I’d perused Kai’s menu at length days before I was due to dine here, excited at the prospect of the mouth-watering treats on offer, and at the possibility of tasting such expensive dishes. I was also a little weary of dining at a restaurant in the heart of Mayfair, as my experience of fine dining has at times been packaged with hostile staff and the kind of interior that would make any footballer’s wife proud.

Not at Kai however. The sleek minimal decor helped to create a relaxed atmosphere, with diners seemingly minding their own business and enjoying their meals. We were greeted at the entrance with a smile, and from then on had the most excellent service; helpful, accommodating and welcoming waiters and waitresses, who were attentive enough to ensure our glasses were filled, but at no times overbearing.

Spoilt for choice over what to order, it took some time to decide, particularly after realizing that the Oriental Lamb Shank and Aromatic Crispy Duck dishes were in fact starters rather than mains. Upon asking as to the size of these appetizers the waitress explained the lamb shank was in fact very small, and was served in a martini glass. My curiosity awoken, I ordered this, along with Steamed Lobster as the main course, whilst my companion asked for the duck, and the Flaming Drunken Pork, with sides of steamed rice and noodles. Our wine of choice was a deliciously smooth 2006 Chateuneuf du Pape, which at £48 was one of the more modestly priced bottles.

I was marvelled when my starter arrived; there it was, lamb shank served in an elegant martini glass, purified with tomato and herbs, and with a layer of chicken garlic sauce on top, so quaint and delicious I immediately thought of how all my foodie friends needed to try it. My companions’ duck was tasty and crispy, served with the obligatory pancakes and hoi sin sauce.

After a pleasant interlude our main courses arrived. The pork was literally flaming, and despite its bacon-like appearance was perfectly cooked in champagne and Chinese red wine, lending it a slightly sweet taste. My lobster appeared to be much larger than average, served with garlic, parsley and soy sauce.

People were still arriving for dinner or for tea and biscuits when we ordered our desserts. The almond curd was a rather large serving for a pudding, dished with scoops of lychee, dragon fruit, melon and strawberry. My friends’ ice cream floated in pumpkin sauce and was a surprisingly good combination of the sweetness of cream and the delicate taste of pumpkin.

One of the most exquisite and innovatively prepared meals I’ve come across, dining here does however come at a hefty price. Our three course meal came to roughly £250, however this did include two bottles of wine, but without ordering some of the more extravagantly priced dishes (i.e. the Shark Fin soup is £98, and the Wagyu beef is £75).

Kai has been voted best London restaurant on a few occasions since it’s opening, a merit completely deserved. If you have the money, this is a very special treat indeed, and a meal to remember.