"A pleasant, safe option for a spot of Japanese food"

Added Thu 04 Mar 2010 by Leila

"Mugen" in Japanese means "dream", or "fantasy". This sleek eatery (arty black and white photographs of gyoza dumplings, white-covered seats and shiny dark wood) in the heart of the city gets is a hit with the local bankers, particularly at lunchtimes.

The menu has plenty of bento boxes, sushi sets and assorted dinner sets, as well as renowned dishes like beef shabu shabu, where a slice of raw beef is briefly swished into a pot of hot broth before eating.

Sets are filling and averagely priced, sashimi and tempura (£15) includes tasty tuna, salmon and sea bass served with unusually mild wasabi, lightly battered carrot, sweet potato, aubergine and asparagus, a pot of miso soup, a helping of rice and a portion of cold fruit which serves as a palate cleanser.

Green tea ice cream with red bean paste is sweet without being over sugary, and the portion is better suited to sharing.

Mugen's food is pleasant if a little on the safe side; the takeaway menu is especially handy.