Our pick of London's best pop-ups that went permanent
Some pop-ups are so good, they stay up
God bless the pop-up. And, in a way, God bless the financial crisis that created them (aside from all the joblessness n' all...)
The financial slump saw cash-strapped foodie businesses struggling to stump up rents for restaurants and so a crafty generation of business folk took to the streets, their vans, buses, disused industrial buildings and other locations to host restaurant pop-ups. And we're darned glad that they did.
Some of the pop-ups were in such demand that they spilled over into permanent full-time establishments. Here are some of our favourites...
The capital’s burger craze has resulted in fanatics trawling through London’s fast food joints,competing with each other to find the softest bun and the juiciest patty. Countless blogs and newspaper articles have been devoted to the cause, and one place that always rates highly is Patty & Bun, in no small part for producing some of the messiest 10-napkin burgers in town. They also do a good line in inspired toppings, such as buttermilk courgettes and chipotle mayo.
Where other pizzerias ensure they produce true Neapolitan pizzas (see Pizza Pilgrims), Homeslice mix it up with British ingredients, so you’ll find combinations like Calabrian peppers with chervil and Lincolnshire Poacher cheese, and goat shoulder with kale. Having built their own oven and taken it to places like the King’s Cross Filling Station and the London Fields Brewery, they’ve now settled in their permanent home in Neal’s Yard.
This typically hip East London venture co-owned by Jackson Boxer of Brunswick House previously had a residency at Dalston bar Birthdays, and is now permanentlylocated in London Fields. The menu has comfort food from around the world, so you’re just as likely to find buttermilk fried chicken as meatballs Marinara and corn tortillas with braised lamb.Other indicators of hipdom: loud music and the odd celeb like Bianca Jagger casually munching on bavette with chimichurri.
Up until four years ago Peruvian food was practically unheard of over here, but with a strong street food tradition and stronger drinks such as the pisco sour it was only a matter of time before it arrived with a bang. Señor Ceviche began popping up at nightclubs, bars and cultural events until taking the plunge last year with a colourful venue on Kingly Court. Naturally the main draw are the ceviches, but don’t miss barbecue specialities like beef anticuchos (skewers) and the 12-hour slow cooked Pachamanca pork rib.
After their highly acclaimed stint at Upstairs at the Ten Bells it was clear their first permanent restaurant would be a hit. When they took over the restaurant at Shoreditch Town Hall hipsters, critics and foodies flocked there; two years on they’re still drawing in the punters with their five course set menu. Here British ingredients are used to create modern dishes like braised leek with smoked mussels and lemon balm.
Austrian food is comfort food – those schnitzels, creamy potato salads and strudels are perfect for cold nights and hungover mornings. The guys at Boopshi’s have made cool a cuisine usually associated with yodelling and lederhosen by includingfashionable options like smoked eel with bitter leaves, whole globe artichoke, Prosecco and cocktails.
The pop-up that started it all, elevated burgers to gourmet status and became London’s most talked about restaurant. The enterprise begun life with the Meatwagon,trawlingthrough pub gardens, before launching the #MEATEASY pop up at The Goldsmiths Tavern in New Cross. MeatLiquor was their first permanent eatery, and after opening four other London branches they’re now in the process of rolling it out nationwide. Make no mistake, this is naughty, sinful junk food – oversized, messy burgers, fries topped with cheese and deep fried pickles are their signatures.
Although London was already familiar with American BBQ delights such as smoky ribs, pulled pork and gigantic portions thanks to places like Bodeans, there’s no doubt that Pitt Cue Co began a trend that would spawn dozens of knock-offs. Their tiny Soho eatery regularly attracts long queues of people prepared to wait for their super tender ox cheek, pulled pork buns and smoked feather blade.
One day two brothers jacked in their day jobs and decided to go on a pizza-tasting tour of Italy. When they returned they bought a van and installed a wood-fired oven inside it; Pizza Pilgrims was born. After taking their Neapolitan pizzas to festivals and street food markets for a year they opened their first restaurant on Dean Street. There’s no messing about with fusion cooking here; Pilgrims’ pizzas stick to authentic recipes with ingredients shipped in from Naples.
