Now, I’ve read a few Kurt Vonnegut books in my time, but never his 1973 novel, Breakfast of Champions. I imagine it could only be the story of the humble fry-up that lies at its heart, with great detail applied to the foibles of a very English institution in a way that only Kurt could. Chapters on stodgy beans, cooked to unnatural viscosity, piping tea somehow hotter than boiling and of course, what one’s choice of eggs highlights about them. That’s just the way I imagine it, anyway. After all, the great fry-up is the breakfast of champions, never bettered - so why shouldn't a great writer have dedicated a novel to it? Here’s where you can find some of London’s best. So it goes…
E Pellici
They don’t come much more East End than E Pellici, a blissful reminder of what came before the gentrification and homogenisation of a lot of this part of London. It clings to its laminated walls, peeling lino and chirpy traditions with all the gusto of a place that knows it should never go changing. It may not be top of the list for the quality of its food, but if it’s the archetypal caf’ you want, then E Pellici has to be it. Come for the breakfast and stay for entertaining eavesdropping.
Caravan
A menu teaming with excellence and easily the most upmarket place on the list, Caravan is an Exmouth Market gem. The fried breakfast uses ingredients that focus on taste and quality rather than the traditional approach to the English breakfast. Double the price of most greasy spoons but perfect if you’re taking a non-fan of bacon and eggs. Think sour dough rather than wafer thin white bread and delicate trimmings that take your fry-up to the next level.
Frizzante
Nowhere else in London do you get to witness the origins of what’s on your plate at such close hand. Located within Hackney City Farm, Frizzante may not be sourcing its sausages and bacon from the yard out back, but there’s definitely something edgy about eating round the corner from two of the largest Tamworth pigs you’ll ever see. Adored by families (come early if you don’t want to deal with screaming children and perfect looking parents) and hipster locals alike, its line-up of organic farm produce provides one of the tastiest, faux-healthy, fry-ups you can find. Honourable mention goes to the Canadian breakfast and its homemade banana bread.
Maria’s Market Café
Located on London’s biggest food market means that the produce at Maria’s Market Café is always top of the pops. Her bubble is legendary, while the rest of the trimmings are a word of mouth winner, details of its quality passed on and on. Endless variations on the classic fry-up but make sure you order a bit of black pudding – greasy but great.
The Phoenix
No frills breakfast dining in the heart of Brixton. The teas are hot and strong – a beefy builder’s tan, the service is swift and the taste of the combo is – if you’re into grand clichés – ‘to die for’. The all-dayer is the one to go for, (of course) it comes with everything and the toast is some of the best I’ve tasted – butter, butter and more butter, on mighty white bread.
