Londoners, there's a war going on, there are certain select restaurants out there fighting to fill you with their version of Japan's ultimate comfort food… so, you know, take cover.
Okay, you got me, these so called 'ramen wars' referenced in the title to this post are a little far fetched, it’s a lie, there are no warring factions doing battle over broth. But, nobody can deny the fact that never before has London had it so good when it comes to ramen outfits vying for your attention. And with all that 'vying' comes competition, which is sort of like a war, no? Who has the thickest, the creamiest, the meatiest, the umamiest broth? Whose eggs have the most velvety yolks? Who serves the best beer to cut through that elastic broth? Here are the main players and here’s how I rate them on broth, noodles, eggs, pork and accompaniments.
Tonkotsu
They started small but expanded rapidly, spreading from central Soho to multiple locations in East London and beyond. The range of ramen is solid and the gyozas are some of the best around. That broth is the result of bones broken down over days and the resulting flavour is pure power.
Bone Daddies
The brash, informal Soho spot (there are now two more) is more ramen bar than ramen restaurant, which automatically blesses it with a sense of fun that the others don’t have. The music is loud and the seared yellowfin tuna starter is a refined touch that keeps it classy. It’s ace, however, is the Asahi Super Creamy Head that it serves on draught – the only place in London that can claim such a feat.
Nanban
First things first, I loved the Nanban cookbook and have it in my kitchen so when visiting the new Brixton restaurant I was expecting big things. Did I get those big things? No. The ramen broth was great but the portions were tiny and the noodles were sub-standard. Growing pains? Maybe try the Shoreditch branch.
Shoryu
The Japan Centre’s very own ramen restaurant is another one that seems to be popping up all over town and I don’t have any problem with that. The BBQ pork buns there are so good that they almost rival the ramen and the ‘Kirin Frozen Head’ beer is a cute quirk that almost compares to the Bone Daddies Asahi - but not quite.
The Winners:
Broth: Tonkotsu/Shoryu
Noodles: Shoryu
Eggs: Bone Daddies
Pork: Tonkotsu
Accompaniments: Shoryu
Beer: Bone Daddies
And there you have it, no score for newcomer Nan Ban. But let’s face it; this whole article was an exercise in futility because besides my issues with Nan Ban’s measly portions, the ramen served by each of these players is sublime. The Japanese comfort ‘soup’ may not be particularly revered in Japan, but in London we’ve elevated it to gourmet eating.
