In what feels like a construction site of shiny tower blocks along the Albert Embankment, on the Southbank half way between Vauxhall and Waterloo train stations, there is a hotel called the Park Plaza London Riverbank. And if you’re passing, you might notice a small sign saying “Chino Latino” which is a modern Pan-Asian restaurant and Latin Bar. I am a little biased against hotel restaurants but this is definitely one where I make an exception.
I arrived before of my companion. On entering the hotel I was faced with an escalator up through a sparkly purple atrium. At the top is an airy space with a reservation desk behind which you can see part of the huge bar and open restaurant area. It makes quite an impact.
To the left is a sushi bar in full swing – you can sit there on high stools if you wish. Far over on the right is a substantial stretched triangular-shaped cocktail bar through which we could just about see a guitarist and singer providing surprisingly good covers of the latest mellow tunes. We were surprised that there weren’t crowds of folk at that bar.
In the centre are fabulous red and black designer armchairs and sofas – guarded by oversized red angle poise lamps and inhabited by a scattering of business folk. And up ahead there’s an enormous slanting glass and metal window providing the most incredible view of the river Thames and the nearby bridge. Jaw dropping.
Luckily, we were shown to a table right in front of that oversized view of the river. And so it took us a while to notice the artistic video projections on either side of the massive walls near the ceilings – and also the illuminated Perspex bricks that shielded what appeared to be a more intimate area of the restaurant. The place is vast. On nearby tables were a group of girls on a night out, a three generation Latin family and a small group of smart twenty-somethings. Yet the huge space made it feel calm and uncrowded.
There’s an extensive cocktail list – they have their own mixologists for rum, agave, cachaça, bourbon, vodka and gin, champagne, sharing and non-alcoholic varieties (prices from £9). And five flavours of Mojitos. There’s also a decent wine list – although we opted for single glasses of Reisling (£9.50) and Gavi de Gavi. Both were excellent.
Our Latin waitress was attentive and friendly and answered all of our questions about the food with knowledge and enthusiasm. The choice – being so eclectic and extensive - is a little bewildering. There’s a range of small dishes spanning tiradito, ceviche, taquitos, anticucho, tempura, sashimi, sushi and nigari. Then there are main courses (including lamb cutlets, duck breast, steak, pork ribs, red, green and yellow curries, sea bass, salmon and vegetarian options). Phew!
We decided to share a selection of small dishes for our starters. The four wagyu beef taquitos (£12.50) arrived on a swirly metal frame in small, crispy cones with creamy but jalapeno and aji panca hot avocado and crispy vegetable micro-shards. The kani kani (£6.50) was beautifully presented – carefully curled pieces of soft shell crab wrapped with rice and avocado but was a little bland until you applied some wasabi. But the tempura prawns in shiso leaf (£8.50) were astonishing – they were huge! The tempura was crisp and the flavour perfect. I could eat those all day.
Being naughty on our night out, we then tried the crispy duck (£14.50) which was theatrically cut up at our table and presented with the pancakes, sauces and sliced vegetables that usually accompany them. Another good pick.
For her main course, my companion chose the signature dish of black cod in spicy miso (£29.50) with a side of steamed bok choi (£4.50). She also experimented with a side of cassava chips (£4) which came with a dip with a kick. She enjoyed that. But I lucked out with my monkfish tail with yuzo kusho dressing and jelly (£32.50). It was presented like a half lobster and the fish was firm but moist and very, very tasty.
The total was £155 and with service added it became £174. But we had had a small feast with a truly international selection of flavours. Whilst it was a tad expensive, those river views, that fabulous architecture, the fascinating video installations, the live music and the overall quality of the ingredients, cooking and presentation made it a unique and worthwhile experience. I suggest you make a visit before it grows too much in popularity and becomes difficult to get into.
Locations: London, Leeds, Nottingham and Cologne
http://www.chinolatino.eu/london/
