"Cosy gastro-pub in Highbury"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
The Duchess of Kent is situated in the salubriously green area of Highbury. Located on a quiet, residential road, it feels miles away from the hustle and bustle of nearby Holloway Road. Inside, bookshelves, wooden tables and wallpaper add to the cosy, local vibe.
Being a warm day we opt for a Rosé wine, and our friendly waitress suggests the fruity Gran Hacienda Cabernet Sauvignon from 2009.
The menu contains many dishes marked as ‘Geronimo favourites’, and we end up ordering two of them as starters. The terrine of pork belly and chicken liver with apple sauce and toast is very tasty. The terrine is rich and flavoursome, the apple sauce is chunky and homemade.
The corned beef hash cakes contain real corn beef (as opposed to the tinned variety, which Friend was expecting) and a tangy mustard piccalilli with chunks of onion.
For the mains we order another favourite, the braised pork belly with bubble & squeak and onion gravy. The pork is tasty and tender, with a layer of fat sitting under the skin, which is still moist and not crispy. The bubble and squeak has chunks of carrot and cabbage in gravy.
The roasted whole mackerel is very good, having absorbed the flavours of lemon and garlic. Large potato croquettes complete the dish.
For desserts we opt for the lemon posset with shortbread, a lovely lemony mousse with popping candy. For those who have never tried it, it is possibly one of the strangest confectionary ingredients. Eating the candy makes it ‘pop’ in the mouth for minutes after, a sensation comparable to eating fizzy sherbets.
I choose the less multi-sensory chocolate pudding, which is covered in hot fudge sauce and has a dollop of Cornish clotted cream to one side. What it lacks in fizz it certainly makes up for in indulgence.
We round off our meal with two glasses of port, and I spend the next few minutes admiring the warmth of the drink and the dainty little glasses it is served in. Our meal, complete with dessert and digestifs, came to roughly £70.
Leila reviewed The Duchess Of Kent on Wed 23 Jun 2010