"From the same people as the Princess of Shoreditch, this gastropub sticks to a winning formula"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
Tucked away on a quiet street off Grays Inn Road, the Lady Ottoline is managed by the same team as the Princess of Shoreditch and the recently opened Pig & Butcher. It shares the same concept: well-to-do gastropub with the cosy pub downstairs (complete with fireplace in this case) and smart dining area upstairs. Food is hearty and British, with a slight bias towards meat and game when in season.
The chef here is Alan Irwin, who used to work at the Michelin-starred Chapter One in Kent, prior to that he was a Roux Scholarship finalist, losing out to Armand Sablon of Galvin at Windows. He seems to have very competently taken on the pub’s winning formula; a venison scotch egg has a runny yolk and well-seasoned rare meat, it’s a rich combination, but watercress and pickled cauliflower prevent it from going over the top. Lambs kidneys are good too, served on toast (if you can call it that, as it’s more of a thin sliver of crispbread), the offal is juicy and redolent of red wine. Also on the menu is Welsh rarebit, fishcake with poached egg, and something called “Peculiar soup” which turns out to be ham and pea, using a recipe that dates back hundreds of years.
The meal isn’t faultless however. The pie of the day is a perfect winter’s dish: rabbit pie. Encased in thin pastry, the rabbit is nice but slightly overcooked in places. A lamb chop is well done, as the friend likes her meat charred, but for me it borders on burnt.
We both love dessert though, a lovely combo of sweet marinated oranges, a blob of smooth white chocolate cream and crispy orange tuiles. The wine list is also worthy of note for having many decent varieties available by the glass, as well as dessert wines.
Leila reviewed The Lady Ottoline on Tue 12 Mar 2013