"There is so much to love about The Candlemaker"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
The food at Battersea’s The Candlemaker comes from a former Soho pop-up called The Full English. As the name suggests the idea is retro British food inspired by the good old greasy spoon, so there’s scampi and chips, cauliflower cheese, bubble and squeak and of course Full English breakfasts available all day. But this description hardly does it justice. Shepherds pie is made with six hour shredded lamb shoulder which practically melts away in rich stock, covered in a layer of homemade potato cakes. Their version of a burger is a huge chunk of meatloaf made from gammon and short rib beef, with chunky chips on the side. Both are so good we just about manage to stop between greedy mouthfuls to sing their praises. There is just one dessert listed on the menu - oat crumble with apples and custard - but the seasonal special is Eton Mess, with plump juicy strawberries, meringue and fresh cream.
Everything is made from scratch: stocks, chutneys and tartare sauce, and food is sourced as locally as possible. So passionate is chef Michele Cremona about this she’s running a campaign called Battersea MyStreet backed by the local MP, in a bid to reinvigorate the weekly market on the high street with local butchers, greengrocers and fishmongers. She also runs a ‘herb hospital’, growing her own herbs to experiment with in recipes and helping locals with their own herb nurturing.
There is so much to love about the place: the food, the ethos behind it and the venue itself, with colourful pop art on the walls, tables made from planks of wood, and a heated garden. It’s a real gem.
Leila reviewed The Candlemaker on Thu 23 Jul 2015Review disclosure: reviewer was invited to review