Trying to find Siam Cafe my Soho street knowledge deserted me, but after some head scratching I remembered where Walkers Court was – and blow me down with a feather if it isn't the little alley between Berwick and Brewer Street, opposite the old Raymond Revue Bar (now part home to infamous late night haunt The Box). If you had to stick a pin in a map where the 'heart' of Soho is, this would be where many would put it. So it's no surprise to learn this no-frills, bright and breezy hole-in-the-wall Thai cafe/takeaway was once a sex-shop. But thankfully it looks like the place has had a good clean before opening!

Run by a couple of friends inspired by trips to Thailand, it aims to bring a small range of authentic Thai dishes to the competitive Soho food scene. With ultra-keen prices - curry with rice and a drink deal is £5 - a meal here won't cost you any more than at the street-food stalls popping up in increasing numbers along Berwick Street Market up the road. But here you can sit down while you eat, particularly welcome on the cold grey day of our visit, or in the heat of summer, when the small basement has been fully converted for dining at stool height.

The compact menu offers three classic Thai chicken curries: green, red and massaman. With the green curry running at, I'm told, about 80% of 'full Thai strength', fans of a spicy dish will not be disappointed - I was reaching for the napkin to dab my brow after a few mouthfuls. The red curry was similarly flavoursome but less hot, while the massaman would be a good option for those who like a milder dish. Pork ribs were tasty and not overpowered by the marinade, and a selection of spicy salads for the summer are planned, as well as Thai-style rotis.

A BYO option increases the value if you fancy a tipple, and they have a selection of cold drinks (including the nuclear M-150 Thai energy drink) and coffee available. Look for the yellow and black elephant logo or you may walk straight past it, unless of course you were peering into the adult establishments next door. With a loyalty card scheme (buy 5 meals get 6th free) Siam Cafe clearly wants to build a local customer base for those local to the area; it seems they are off to a good start. It's not a really a place to head for with a date or an evening meal, but if you want a pit-stop that's good value, and with Soho people-watching at its finest passing right outside the door, give it a whirl.

Siam Cafe Soho

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