The Drift

Restaurant & Bar in The City
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6 / 10 from 1 review
Address
Heron Tower
110 Bishopsgate
The City
London
EC2N 4AY
Map
Telephone
(0084 5468 0103
Region
The City
Nearest Station
Liverpool Street
0.09 miles
Opening Times
Monday Open 07:30 - Closes 23:00
Tuesday Open 07:30 - Closes 23:00
Wednesday Open 07:30 - Closes 23:00
Thursday Open 07:30 - Closes 01:00
Friday Open 07:30 - Closes 01:00
Saturday Open 10:00 - Closes 00:00
Sunday Open 10:00 - Closes 19:00

An all day bar and restaurant in the impressive Heron Tower skyscraper on Bishopsgate, the drift is brought to you by the team behind The Folly, The Anthologist, The Parlour and The Refinery.

Spread over two levels, its quirky design touches and view of Europe’s largest private aquarium is a refreshing antidote to the somewhat uniform City bars. the drift brims with quirky collectibles, hidden alcoves, a mixology table and a fine dining nook, whilst offering delights such as a spectacular flambe menu, a crustacea bar and liquid desserts to die for.

The modern European menu includes plenty of sharing boards, flatbreads and antipasto boards alongsi de familiar favourites such as gourmet sandwiches, burgers jam-packed with delicious fillings, hearty mains and seasonal salads.

Drinks are taken seriously here with a range of well-crafted and innovative cocktails from well-loved classics to calorie counted ‘skinnies’ and ‘superfood’ cocktails. An extensive wine list includes over 40 wines by the glass and well-priced wine flights.

All In London Review

City bar serves ambitious, ultimately booze-soaking food

We’re in the Heron Tower, home to the newish and hugely hyped Duck & Waffle and Sushisamba, however rather than ascend to the top floors we’re making our way through a thick crowd of suited wine quaffers outside The Drift, on the ground floor of the skyscraper (although you can check out our review of Duck & Waffle here). The restaurant level is upstairs, with mosaic tiling on the floors and walls, but this quirky touch doesn’t stop it from feeling any less like a city bar. It’s also very busy, and the noise levels contradict the venue’s motto of “an island of calm in the heart of the city”.

The menu is divided into somewhat conceited headings like “from the earth” and “from the woods and the garden”, but when examined it mostly has party foods and booze-soaking fare like prawn lollipops, sharing boards and burgers. A dish of Old Spot pork sausages with roasted apple is good, but the odd bit of gristle prevents it from being great. The mascarpone and mushroom stuffed chicken breast wrapped in pancetta, and the smoked haddock topped with a poached egg have both been slightly overcooked, but serve their purpose. Our favourite dish is the flatbread smothered in blue cheese with slices of grilled courgette.

There is a whole section of “tatties” with different toppings and herbs; we choose Viking fries with parsley and anchovy, but the anchovy is disappointingly subtle.

A knickerbocker glory with salted caramel and roasted plum is inexplicably billed as no calories, surprising given that it contains sinful chunks of caramel and heaps of cream and ice cream. Three mini pudding shots are served in jam jars: there’s a chocolate brownie, a miniature knickerbocker glory and a white chocolate and raspberry crème brûlée, which despite lacking a burnt caramelised layer is still very enjoyable.

Their major selling point is a good selection of wines ranging from £13.95 for Merlot and Chenin Blanc to £45.95 for Pouilly-Fuse; we’re impressed by the heady fragrance of a smooth 2009 Chilean Pinot Noir priced at £28.95, which hits us in the nose before we drink it. Another plus point is that food is modestly priced, as a three course meal for two with wine is around £80.

Reviewed by Leila
Published on Oct 16, 2012


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