Smith and Wollensky

Brace yourselves for the Sundae Sessions every weekend

Remember those heady days of childhood when you’d find yourself on holiday, at a hotel buffet with an ice cream sundae bar? The sheer excitement of being faced with every feasible combination of flavours, sauces and sprinkles to satisfy even the most gluttonous of ice cream dreams.

Brace yourselves, for Smith & Wollensky has introduced the Sundae Sessions every weekend, a heavenly bar featuring over 15 indulgent toppings to bedeck your bowl with whatever tickles your fancy. For £5 for children or £9 for adults, you’ll be able to choose three scoops of their delicious ice cream to load up, or if you’re feeling especially brave hit up the bottomless option, unlimited ice cream and toppings for 60 minutes priced ay £15 for adults and £9 for children up to the age of 12.

Sounds too good to be true? A recent weekend visit didn’t disappoint. If you’ve not yet visited Smith & Wollensky it’s certainly a treat. A sleek New York style space reminiscent of an antiquated dining car, all green leather booths, parquet floors and crisp linen, its menu features a plethora of prime cuts of USDA steak, tasty starters like hand-dived Scottish scallops and some classic American brunch dishes like buttermilk pancakes and waffles with bacon and maple syrup.

I started off with a burrata and heirloom tomato salad; a longtime favourite and something I love to try in as many restaurants as possible in a bid to find one as delicious as that served in my Italian b&b on holiday last summer. This one didn’t disappoint, a vibrant array of rich, ripe tomatoes accompanied with a hunk of creamy burrata, just a drizzle of oil and finished with balsamic glaze and some fresh basil. Simple Italian perfection.

Forgoing the steak menu - being sensible, I wanted to leave ample space for ice cream - I plumped for a main course of her-crusted cod, a flaky hunk of fish accompanied by creamy whipped potatoes, black olives and tomatoes. The herb crust was delicious and with an additional side of creamed spinach it was just right for a light lunch.

Of course what we were really there for was pudding. Once you’ve decided on your ice cream flavours, the fun really starts; I defy you not to regress into being a total child when faced with the sundae station. All thoughts of my bikini body went out of the window. They had everything. And I mean EVERYTHING. Chocolate, strawberry and salted caramel sauces. Fresh berries, homemade wafers and chunks of tooth-achingly sweet honeycomb. Mini marshmallows and chunks of chocolate brownies. Salted peanuts, nougat, meringues, peanut brittle, jelly beans, hundreds and thousands, popcorn, feuilletine, chocolate drops; it was more than a little overwhelming. Needless to say, my eyes were bigger than my belly. Filling the bowl with myriad sweets and sauces, I regretted my decision to try two earlier courses almost immediately.

£9 might feel a little steep for three scoops of ice cream, but my days, the treats laid out in front of you and the sheer entertainment value of being given free rein to create your dream pudding makes it worth every penny. Alas, if it weren’t for my waistband I’d be back every weekend. Available every Saturday 10.30am – 4.30pm and Sunday from 10.30-3.30pm.

Reviewed by Laurel
Published on Sep 2, 2019

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Marvellous Californian wine and great steaks

I’ve passed this lively and impressive-looking restaurant in the Adelphi Building on Covent Garden Riverside (five minutes from Embankment and Charing Cross stations) several times as it is right opposite one of my business clients. It’s tucked away on John Adam Street so you’re unlikely to walk past it unless you stray off The Strand. So it was only by attending one of its occasional wine dinners that I finally discovered what a gem of a place it is.

Americans and steak lovers probably know it well. Whilst the London restaurant has only been open for two years, there is a fascinating history around its American roots. Alan Stillman opened the first T.G.I. Fridays restaurant in 1965 in New York. When successful he sold it to a venture capital group and invested the money in his next project, opening Smith & Wollensky in October 1977 at the site of another venerable New York culinary institution - Manny Wolf's Steakhouse. There are now many Smith & Wollensky “classic New York steak houses” across the United States. His story is even on the syllabus at Harvard University!

I didn’t make it to the Independence Day celebrations but joined them for one of its wine dinners – in the largest of its three private rooms downstairs (which has a US flag that’s so old it has two of the State stars missing). So did other members of the public who are on the restaurant’s mailing list. These included those who knew the restaurants in America, wine connoisseurs, steak fans, City business people and people who just loved the vibe of the London restaurant.

I’m not a wine expert but the amazing five course dinner was hosted by operations director Nathan Evans and Brian from Duckhorn Vineyards in Napa Valley. Brian, in a relaxed but passionate manner, briefly introduced each of the wines and explained a little about the vineyards and heritage.

All the wines sampled were relatively youthful and light – but with surprising richness. My favourite was the Canvasback Red Mountain Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 which arrived with the generous cheese plate. My companion was most impressed with the first wine they produced 38 years ago – the Duckhorn Vineyards Howell Mountain Red Blend 2012. The dessert wine – Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2013 – was outstanding – and I don’t generally like dessert wines. A real shame that they only produce around 150 cases a year – I felt privileged to have been able to taste that nectar.

45% of the wines sold at Smith & Wollensky are American but there’s also an impressive range of French and Italian wines as well.

The food was pretty good too. There was a scallop with garlic and parsley butter. The duck rillettes had an amazingly dry texture but were full of flavour. Interestingly, they served a US sourced wagyu rib-eye steak from the incredibly named Snake River. As expected, the steak was cooked perfectly. The fries and mushrooms were as expected but the creamed spinach (which apparently takes three days to produce) was sublime.

It was a great evening. And I am tempted to attend the champagne evening they are hosting in September – places are strictly limited. But I will certainly add the restaurant to my list for both business lunches (especially when entertaining Americans if they want a taste of home) and for entertaining friends in the evening.

With 370 seats in the large Art Deco inspired upstairs and downstairs restaurants they certainly have enough space. And I really like the smart and professional but relaxed atmosphere. And with pre-theatre deals on Friday and Saturdays from £25 per head (the premium dry-aged steaks on the main menu start at £39) it’s an affordable treat. And yes, it has chicken, fish, shellfish and vegetarian options for those who don’t eat steak.

Reviewed by KimT
Published on Jul 11, 2017

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A high end steak and seafood restaurant that's definitely worth a splurge

The original Smith & Wollensky opened in New York in 1977, now there are nine of the high-end steak and seafood restaurants across the US. The London site opened in 2015 in the Grade II-listed Adelphi Building just off the Strand. Nodding to its 1930s architecture, inside it's all art-deco inspired, with mushroom-shaped lamps perched on a marble-topped bar, and dark wood-panelled walls with prints of flapper girls. It's very busy when we arrive for dinner, filled with a post-work, suited crowd.

Everything on the menu is American-sized, from the spirit measures to the food portions. We sip a martini with a staggering 80ml of Belvedere vodka (note the need to sip, not glug), and a strong Manhattan made with Bulleit bourbon. The cocktail list is big, with old favourites like juleps, white Russians and Clover Clubs. The martini section alone has 12 different variations - dirty martini with blue-cheese stuffed olives, anyone?

The starters are mostly shellfish such as oysters, mussels and shrimps. The jumbo lump crab cake is a hearty fish cake served with wasabi sauce on the side. Half a cold poached lobster is nicely seasoned, with more wasabi and a pot of tomato salsa.

Beef is imported from the US, dry-aged and carved up on-site. Rib-eye comes with the bone in to seal flavour and marbling, and it's a satisfying hunky piece of meat weighing over two thirds of a kilo. But the winner is the yellowfin tuna loin, which we order rare to make the most of its sushi grade (meaning it's as fresh as fish can get, short of eating it on the boat). Portioned into the two fattest fillets we've ever seen, they're positioned so they point upwards making it an Instagram-worthy dish. It's coated in a very good herb crust and comes with a bean salad drizzled in tomato vinaigrette.

Side dishes include a very aromatic truffle mac ‘n’ cheese, creamy whipped potatoes with fresh-tasting basil oil as a counterpoint, and large onion rings fried in light buttermilk batter.
The wine list is extensive so we leave it to the capable sommelier to pick out a Pouilly Fume for the fish, and the steak-pairing wine par excellence, thes oaky Malbec.

Their most popular dessert is the aptly named 'Gigantic Chocolate Cake', a moist sponge layered with Baileys and chocolate mousse, covered in super rich, dark chocolate ganache. The menu states it's for two to four people, but once they've boxed it up for us it lasts for several days of generous helpings.

With the steaks priced between £36 and £60 it's not a cheap night out by any means, but it's definitely worth a splurge.

Reviewed by Leila anonymously
Published on Jun 27, 2016

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Specialising in prime cuts of USDA steak and delicious seafood, it's a food lovers dream...

Autumn brings with it a slew of new restaurant openings across town, but for now may I turn your attention to one that arrived in our shores quietly over the summer but - for the fine diners amongst you - certainly shouldn't be overlooked.

Eagle-eyed Devil Wears Prada viewers may recognise American steak emporium Smith & Wollensky as the establishment to which Anne Hathaway as the much-berated assistant is sent to collect her boss's lunch; if it's good enough for (Anna Wintour-inspired) Miranda Priestly it would be rude not to try it.

The US import opened its doors in June, in the historic grade-II listed Adelphi building off the Strand, the perfect location for a civilised supper. With a glamorous old-New-York style bar it'd be a shame to waste your visit without trying a classic Old Fashioned pre-dinner, perfectly blended with a your choice of whisky (Woodford Reserve, always) and quite the best I've sampled in town. With a cocktail list over 30 classics reminiscent of the best Mad Men-inspired downtown bars you'd be a fool not try sample at least one.

With a menu specialising in prime cuts of USDA steak, and delicious seafood, it's a food lovers dream. We started with a signature jumbo crab cake and a plate of completely melt-in-the-mouth, soft as butter seared Scottish King scallops, served with a butterbean and carrot purée and bacon. Having spotted the food envy-inducing crispy salt and pepper squid and Cumbrae oysters on the next table however, I can concur I will be returning at a later date to try them both as well.

Whilst the lure of a shellfish platter, resplendent with lobster, crabmeat, shrimp, oysters and clams was almost too much to resist, for my main I plumped for a 2lb North Atlantic lobster with garlic butter, and boy am I glad I did. Although I (of course. Why wouldn't you?) indulged in a side of truffled mac and cheese (unnecessary and yet so delicious...) all this sweet, tender meat needed was a splash of butter and a green leaf salad. The only time I've had lobster better was on the beach at a wedding in Antigua - discounted due to the extenuating circumstances. A side of sautéed spinach and a sliced tomato and sweet onion salad accompanied my companion's special of a 22oz T-bone, a feat I wasn't sure he would tackle and yet he polished off every bite. With all of their steaks dry-aged on site for no less than 24 days you'd be hard fought to find a more flavourful cut in London; don't tell Hawksmoor, but the comment was that they were well and truly trumped.

If that wasn't enough to tickle your fancy, make sure you leave room for dessert. The cheeseboard is always a worthy investment, especially when accompanied with a glass of Quady Starboard Vintage port, and if you're looking for another cocktail recommendation my points are awarded to the beautifully named Breakfast at Tiffany's; ciroc vodka, orange marmalade, lemon and Canard-Duchêne champagne. I can also heartily recommend the creamy milk chocolate mousse parfait with bourbon soaked bananas. There are no words. Just try it.

In spite of appearances, dining at Smith & Wollensky needn't break the bank. With a tempting pre-theatre/set menu featuring two courses for £22 and three for £26 one can get a taste of the good without the hefty bill; it may not get you the lobster but a sirloin carpaccio and pan roasted organic salmon fillet is certainly not to be sniffed at. Sunday's offer a bottomless brunch and also worth noting is the menu coming up for Thanksgiving at the end of this month; if there's one things Americans do well it's holiday food. Available from 26th-28th November at a set price of £55 per person, it features (amongst other choices) a proper turkey roast with sausage and cornbread stuffing, cranberry sauce and red wine gravy with sides of roasted sprouts with smoked bacon, whipped potatoes, bourbon roasted carrots (sold...) and green bean casserole. With a pumpkin and pecans pie with cinnamon whipped cream on the dessert list, I know where I'm headed for Thanksgiving this year.

Reviewed by Laurel
Published on Nov 16, 2015

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