After a stint at the legendary El Bulli learning from alchemist-chef Ferran Adrià, Nuno Mendes made a name for himself in London, firstly as head chef of the now defunct Bacchus, and then by hosting the Loft Project, a supper club he ran from his home in Dalston. Then came Viajante in 2010, located in Bethnal Green’s stunning art deco Town Hall Hotel, along with its more informal, no-bookings sister restaurant Corner Room. This year Corner Room is a new entry on our list at number 80, while Viajante has risen three places to number 15.
Mendes explains the difference between a supper club and planning for a permanent restaurant. “The infrastructure required to set up a supper club is minimal. For a well-planned permanent restaurant that you want to have a long lifespan and become profitable, the infrastructure is huge: the money required, the contacts you need, the staffing, the budgeting... Supper clubs are something very pure, with minimal infrastructure, instead just relying on the versatility of the person running it. It shows the opposite spectrum of dining. Although now, after supper clubs have become more popular, more and more restaurateurs are keen to make their businesses more intimate and remove the distinction between the two. Every day more and more restaurants open and as a restaurant it is much harder to keep reinventing yourself and stay fresh while carrying so much weight. A supper club is a revolution of the restaurant at a time when everything costs so much and premiums are so high, it is somewhere for chefs to share their ideas on an accessible platform in a fun and practical way."
He believes we’re about to see more eateries emulating those of the Big Apple in the capital. “All-day modern eateries inspired by New York concepts that offer amazing food, in a relaxed environment and a beautiful setting, and sharing menus at affordable prices and with a nice element of glamour and sophistication."
To budding chefs, he advises “keep your eyes open, keep reading, and remember that London is just a tiny dot on the map. Try to stage in as many places as you can. Don’t plan to get married or have kids for the next 15 years and you’ll be alright!"
Contrary to a lot of other people in his profession, he loves cooking for other chefs. “I think most people are so intimidated by that but I love it when they visit us in the restaurant. There is a certain understanding between chefs, someone that understands the trade can have a greater appreciation for our work. They tend to be nice people who want to come, eat a load of food and get drunk!"