The All in One Ultimate Restaurant List: Michel Roux Jr

Le Gavroche is one of London’s most highly acclaimed restaurants, something that’s evidenced by its two Michelin stars and a very devoted following. The Roux brothers opened the restaurant in 1967, and Albert’s son Michel Roux Jr. took over the kitchen in 1991. Here he tells us what the key to their success is.

What does Le Gavroche do that nowhere else does?
I don’t think we have exclusivity on this, but I think the key to our continued success is conviviality, because without it, food doesn't taste as good. People often say that they will go back to a restaurant serving mediocre food because the service is so good, but if the service is bad, people will not go back, no matter how great the food. Thankfully at Le Gavroche we pride ourselves on having some of the best waiting staff in the world, and Le Gavroche would not have been able to retain its success for so long without such a strong team.

Have any new restaurants excited you recently?
There are restaurants opening up in London at such a pace, but I like The Dairy, a seasonal British restaurant in Clapham which has been around a while - it’s still one of the places I like to go to most, and also Roka in Mayfair which opened earlier in the year is fabulous.

You’re involved with several organisations that help provide training in the industry, is this a cause that’s close to your heart?
Training is hugely important, but it’s also about making sure that more people and a wider variety of people consider working in the hospitality industry, whether it’s back or front of house.

What qualities does someone need to be a good chef?
Of course a chef needs cooking skills and good taste - these are a prerequisite. But I think humility is also essential.

Do you have a signature recipe you can share with us?
Our signature dish is the Souffle Suissesse. The recipe has been passed down from fathers to sons in our family and has been on the menu at Le Gavroche since the restaurant first opened.

Souffle Suissesse
Ingredients:
45g butter
45g plain flour
500ml milk
5 egg yolks
salt and freshly ground white pepper
6 egg whites
600ml double cream
200g Gruyere or Emmental cheese, grated

Heat the oven to 200C/400F/gas 6.

Melt the butter in a thick based saucepan, whisk in the flour and cook, stirring continuously for about 1 minute. Whisk in the milk and boil for three minutes, whisking all the time to prevent any lumps from forming. Beat in the yolks and remove from heat; season with salt and pepper. Cover with a piece of buttered greaseproof paper to prevent a skin from forming.

Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they form firm, not stiff, peaks. Add a third of the egg whites to the yolk mixture and beat with a whisk until evenly mixed, then gently fold in the remaining egg whites. Spoon the mixture into four well-buttered8cm diameter tartlet moulds and place in the oven for 3 minutes, until the tops begin to turn golden.

Meanwhile, season the cream with a little salt. Warm in gently and pour into a gratin dish. Turn the soufflés out into the cream, sprinkle the grated cheese over the soufflés, then return to the oven for five minutes. Serve immediately.