The All In One Ultimate Restaurant List Interview: Fergus Henderson

St. John opened back in 1994, but ‘nose to tail eating’ became a buzzphrase much more recently. Co-owner Fergus Henderson clears up a few things.

“Nose to tail eating was meant to be a useful and holistic way of describing my approach to cooking, not a call to the barricades. Offal appearing on menus does not mean that it has been accepted as common fare at home. For example the supermarkets are still doing a roaring trade in pink anonymous meat packaged in plastic. Offal and the exploration of it will open your eyes and taste buds to a world of flavour and textures which lurk behind the fillet. Enjoy!”

St. John is up 13 places from last year, and is at number 24 on the 2013 list. The restaurant at the St. John Hotel is a new entry at number 77, however it is now under new ownership and has been renamed One Leicester Street.