The All In One Ultimate Restaurant List Interview: The Dairy

The Dairy in Clapham is run like a farmhouse kitchen. Head chef Robin Gill and his wife Sarah produce as much as possible in-house, with everything else locally sourced. This approach has earned them a place on our top 100 Ultimate Restaurant List at number 49.
 
What does The Dairy do that nowhere else does?
We have a farm to table feel where everything is developed here in-house: charcuterie, breads, fermented foods, and our own rooftop garden housing four beehives. It is the closest thing to eating in a farmhouse restaurant in London. 

What is a common misconception about chefs?
That we are all highly strung, heavy drinking, unsociable, egotistical TV personality wannabes. 

What food is your guilty pleasure?
McDonald's 

What is the best thing about London’s restaurant scene?
Its diversity and creativity, the talent gets better and better! 

Which new restaurants have excited you recently?
Smoking Goat, Lyle's, and Barrafina on Adelaide Street. 

What advice would you give to chefs starting out?
It's very hard work and you never stop learning. Don't take a head chef role too early in your career, it won't benefit you in the long run. 

Which is your signature recipe?
SX fried anchovies, lemon and borage. This is a stunning and simple snack which reminds me of the wonderful pintxos from San Sebastian, so salty with a hit of lemon, it's perfect to go with anything cold and bubbly.

Ingredients:
For the batter
200g rice flower
80g corn flower
100g potato flower
60g tapioca flour
15g baking powder
30g honey
650g sparkling water

For the lemon jelly
150g lemon juice
75g caster sugar
1 sheet gold leaf gelatine (soaked in ice water)

10 fillets of the best quality anchovies
3 leaves of sorrel
2 leaves fresh borage
10 borage flowers

Method:
In a large mixing bowl add all the dry ingredients. Next using a whisk add first the honey and slowly add the sparkling water, whisk for a good 5 minutes to work the flowers into the water.

Dissolve the sugar in 50ml of the lemon juice by warming it in a pan to just before boiling, next add the soaked and drained gelatine leaf and stir through until it has dissolved into the mix. Add the remaining lemon juice and set in a suitable container in the refrigerator until required.

Remove the anchovies from the tin and pat dry, place in a fryer on 180C. Dip the anchovies into the batter and then place them into the oil, fry until golden and crisp. Dry on kitchen paper and arrange on a chosen plate. Add a couple of dots of the lemon gel and a couple of pieces of the torn sorrel leaves, borage leaves and flowers, and serve.