Morgan M

50 Long Acre, The City, London, EC1A 9EJ
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Closed
Our records show that Morgan M is closed.

Address
50 Long Acre, The City, London, EC1A 9EJ

Cuisine
French

Region
The City

Nearest Station
Barbican (0.12 miles)

Restaurant Facilities

Children Welcome

Credit Cards Accepted

Booking Advisable

Morgan Meunier’s restaurant by Smithfield Market looks austere and restrained, but the imaginative cuisine is anything but. The best way to experience this restaurant is with the tasting menus, which include slow cooked wild boar and seared fillet of John Dory. They’re well priced too, it’s £52 without wine, otherwise it’s an extra £30.

Meunier is also a dab hand at vegetarian dishes, and the tasting menu, “From the Garden” is highly recommended, even for meat eaters.

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All In London Review

An exquisite Gallic menu for veggies

French gastronomy is not normally kind to vegetarians, so the meat-free tasting menu at Morgan M is a curious experiment to say the least.

Morgan M first opened in 2003 in Islington. Its most recent reincarnation is in the City, opposite Smithfields Market, and the suits are certainly out in force during Friday’s lunch hour. The décor is smart in a clean but boring kind of way, everything is neat and coordinated but there is little in terms of character.

But this is hardly cause for complaint, as the food does the talking here. The meal starts with cream of Mojette white beans with pesto, lemon confit and cubes of tangy tomato, a great blend of rich and citrusy flavours. Equally delectable is the green cannelloni of rich mushroom julienne with garlic puree and wilted spinach.

Next up is the winter salad, which boasts an impressive marriage of flavours and textures with crunchy beans, fleshy sundried tomatoes, pine nuts, soft lemony artichoke and a lime dressing. We’re in love, and the following dish, a tower of cooked beetroot, pine nut biscuit and tangy goat’s cheese, makes us swoon.

Desserts are every bit as great; the rice pudding is light and creamy, wrapped in an orange tuile, while the dark chocolate cake is an intense experience, yet balanced by a milk sorbet and a shot of creamy Armagnac. The passion fruit soufflé is fluffy and light, paired with hot crème Anglaise and passion fruit sorbet.

Overall an indulgent, delicious meal priced at just £46 per person, £76 with wine pairing, which we’d recommend for the full experience. The citrusy Le Lesc Colombard paired with the sumptuously rich cream of Mojette beans, and the warm aroma of the 1996 Bourgueil Peu Muleau served with the beetroot and goat’s cheese reaffirm the expert combinations of the menu. An exquisite Gallic menu for veggies? Oh yes.

Reviewed by Leila
Published on Mar 20, 2012


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