Apsleys at The Lanesborough

Three michelin-starred Heinz Beck opened his first Italian restaurant outside Italy in London’s most expensive hotel. The dining room is grand, inspired by Venetian décor, with large Renaissance-style murals covering the walls. A good introduction is the tasting menu, but prices are suitably sky-high; main courses cost upwards from £33, something which has attracted considerable criticism.

Despite loaning his name to Apsleys Beck remains based at La Pergola in Italy, while the executive chef here is Heros de Agostini.