Name: Masala Zone
Address: 48 Floral Street, London, Covent Garden, WC2E 9DA, UK
Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7379 0101
Rating: 8.5

Having been an Indian food fan for more years than I can remember (having even sampled some interesting dishes in Pakistan), I took along an even greater curry fiend to visit Masala Zone in Covent Garden.

Tucked along Floral Street so incredibly convenient for the piazza and all the shops and bars in the area you come across huge windows showing a spacious but busy interior. Your eyes are immediately attracted to all the bright rajasthani puppets depicting a royal wedding procession suspended from the ceiling – many of them looking like dolls but there are sections of elephants and other animals. The kids would love it. Apparently in other outlets the decoration centres of tribal paintings, early Indian posters and other Indian art.

Stepping around the signs shouting “Real Indian Food” and “Healthy” and “Pre and Post Theatre Deals” you enter the warm interior and your nose is assaulted by all manner of delicious aromas and your eyes are drawn to the numerous fish eye mirrors. The staff are welcoming, friendly and efficient – and there are lots of them so the service is brisk but pleasant.

It’s a mixed and happy crowd. There are a few larger groups – possibly after work parties. The majority of people are in smaller groups – threes and fours. And around the windows are some tiny tables for couples. My colleague commented that this might be a good place for a first informal date but not the right setting for a lazy, romantic meal. It’s a popular choice for lunches and there is an assortment of menus and special deals for lunch and pre-theatre deals.

The menu is organised into sections – street food (‘for grazing or starters’) with mostly cool and warm vegetarian options (and just three non-veg options), thalis, curries and grills and sides.

The most popular dish here is a thali (and they change the combinations regularly and sometimes include English vegetables) and the grand thali combines your starter and main course. I opted for the prawn grand thali which arrived on a steel platter slightly too big for the table. This included an Indian canapé (a mashed potato patti containing onion, garlic and sago), a chapatti, a papadum, a small portion of dressed salad, some mango chutney and mint (and cheese?) sauces and four small pots containing a black lentil dish, spinach and potato, mushroom and sweetcorn and a raita (yoghurt). These were rather tasty – nothing too spicy but each with a subtle flavour and texture. Then there was a larger dish containing a disappointingly small number of prawns in a rather mediocre thick tomato sauce. The central mound of basmati rice was perfectly cooked. I washed this down with a glass of red wine (Montepulciano – one of my favourites) – which was pleasantly warmed - and lots of tap water. Nice glasses.

My colleague fared much better with his choice. The starter of shikampuri kebab was a triumph. The tenderest, crumbliest minced lamb in two patties with a hint of coriander wrapped in a wafer thin sheened batter – delicately but positively spiced. Served with a small salad that was expertly dressed. He had a Tiger beer.

Although he was disappointed that the chicken madras he had spied on one of the menus was not available and somewhat surprised that there were no onion bhajis he was actually rather pleased with his chicken mangalore – described as zesty with coconut and tomato flavours. It was delicious and the chicken pieces were large, generous and firm. A good sized portion of rice came with this and he also ordered a plain nan.

We left feeling replete but without that “I’ve eaten too much” feeling that you often experience after an Indian meal. Our bill came to £37.07 which includes service which felt like good value for such a Central London location – although we only did only have one drink each and skipped dessert (mostly ice cream, sorbets and kulfi).

So, this is the updated curry shop for the next generation. Gone is the flock wallpaper and background music. The focus is on natural ingredients, authentic cooking, street food and subtle flavours. It’s informal and friendly. But I suspect that the die-hard High Street curry enthusiasts will prefer more standard fare.

They only take reservations for groups of eight or more, but the turnaround time is quick. We were there for just about an hour – it’s not the sort of place you linger – a bit too busy. Accessibility note: The loos are down a modern spiral staircase.

Masala Zone

Children Welcome

Credit Cards Accepted

Music Played

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