"A charming neighbourhood restaurant with a Mediterranean menu"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
This little neighbourhood restaurant is in a particularly villagey part of Hammermith. Across the road is a deli and artisan coffee shop, an all-girls' school and a hatmakers' shop.
It's an intimate sort of place, with elegant all-white decor and an open frontage with tables on the pavement, giving it a summery vibe which follows through to the menu.
We start with a bright dish of salt cod, with chunks of the fish paired with big pieces of red and yellow tomato, black olives and plenty of chopped parsley. Shredded spiced crab and brown shrimp are stuffed into agnolotti, which are a bit like ravioli, cooked al dente, and flavoured with fennel and chilli butter. To add extra colour they're sprinkled with dill and chilli.
Maiale tonnato is a winning combination of cold sliced roasted pork loin smeared with smooth tuna mayonnaise. The creamy mayo adds a touch of brine to the rich pork, and salted hot new potatoes and rocket are perfect accompaniments. The roast lamb rump is beautifully pink in the middle, served with green beans that have soaked up the juices of the meat. On the side is a mini saucepan of creamy swiss chard gratin. We also get a pot of salted frites with the skins on.
Desserts are the very British Eton mess with plump strawberries, gooseberry and elderflower jelly, and generous helpings of meringue and whipped cream; and the very French ice Paris-brest, akin to a doughnut ring but with crispier pastry, stuffed with ice cream and served with a jug of hot chocolate sauce to be poured over.
Most of the clientele are suitably affluent types, however the prices are accessible. A very good wine list has a selection by the glass starting from £4.50, and there are carafes as well as bottles.
Leila reviewed The Brackenbury on Thu 28 Jul 2016Review disclosure: reviewer was invited to review