"Hawksmoor claim it is the best meat you'll find in the country, and it's hard to disagree"Review Rating: Reviewed by James Whiting
Getting a table at a very popular Hawksmoor can be tricky, particularly the Seven Dials outpost just off Covent Garden, even on a Tuesday. However, we got lucky and bagged a table for three in the bar. This included the same service, comfier looking seats and of course the steak, no complaints at all about this!
While we waited for the third of our party to arrive the chips and dip were impossible to resist. This simple paper cone and metal gravy boat set the standard, and in the end epitomised the whole meal. There is no pretence at Hawksmoor, just simplicity at its flavourful best, and this carried through every dish from start to finish. The chips were triple cooked, and worth the effort. A crispy golden shell housed the lightest fluffy potato - without a hint of hyperbole they were the best chips anyone at the table had ever eaten. They were accompanied by a Stilton hollandaise that had exactly the right amount of cheesy punch. Even the ketchup has been improved upon and the Hawksmoor variety had an anchovy note to it that elevated the red sauce to another level.
With the party complete a few cocktails were ordered off the extensive and intriguing historical drinks menu. A Rub-a-dub Shrub was interestingly spiced and the Marmalade cocktail was a great combination of zest and zing. The atmosphere was lively, and with the conversation flowing the slab of sirloin on the bone hit the table in its cast iron skillet. Pre-sliced as requested for speed of eating, the meat was beautiful. Rare, juicy and with a caramelised charred exterior. The flavour from the grill was phenomenal, not much else can be said, it was a sublime piece of beef, cooked perfectly. The cuts of cow are priced by the gram, and are not cheap, but worth every single penny.
Sides consisted of more chips, devilled broccoli and a baked sweet potato. The crispy chips proved they were not a fluke the first time around, and the broccoli was flecked with red chilli shards that ignited the palette. Furthermore, through pure greed, grilled bone marrow was also ordered, and when it arrived it was just as decadent as was hoped for.
Nearly full from the masses of meat there was just enough room for desserts. There were no fireworks, just very tasty old fashioned favourites. Apple and rhubarb crumble with thick luxurious custard and sticky toffee pudding topped with a dollop of clotted cream were both excellent, and a thoroughly satisfying end to the meal.
If you are a fan of steak a trip to Hawksmoor is a must. The beef is Longhorn cattle from The Ginger Pig in North Yorkshire which is hung for 35 days. Hawksmoor claim it is the best meat you'll find anywhere in the country, and following this meal it was very hard to disagree.
James Whiting reviewed Hawksmoor Seven Dials on Mon 28 May 2012