"A London take on Brazil’s churrascarias"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
The owners of Cabana ought to know what they are doing. After all, Jamie Barber is responsible for Villandry, Sake No Hana and Hush; David Ponte for Momo. They’ve now turned their expertise to Brazilian street food, with two outlets opening almost simultaneously in November 2011, one at Westfield Stratford, the other in the new development at Central St. Giles Piazza, yet another anonymous-looking square filled with successful, upmarket chains like Byron, Zizzi and good old Jamie’s Union Jacks.
But let’s not get carried away with the expansion of chains in London, profiting from the recession where small businesses are not. Let’s instead focus on the menu at this cheerful looking eatery, which has colourful kites adorning the ceiling and seats made from patchwork denim, apparently straight out of the favelas. The inspiration comes from Brazil’s churrascarias, where the custom is for a variety of meats to be grilled and delivered to your table throughout the meal till you’ve had your fill. There are sweet pork and papaya sausages, some very spicy Tiger prawns, and a juicy butterflied pork tenderloin with a smattering of Parmesan grated over the top. Brazil’s popular snack, pao de queijo is also here, that’s cheesy doughy balls to you and me. There are crispy risotto balls oozing Parmesan, sweet potato fries dusted in paprika, and chubby croquettes made with pieces of fiery chicken. No wonder there’s a frozen yoghurt bar.
To drink there are Brazilian beers on tap, and cachaça naturally, which can be added to any of the non-alcoholic drinks on the menu. While the food may not be wholly authentic, it’s inexpensive and tasty.
Leila reviewed Cabana on Mon 09 Jan 2012