"Heliot’s USP is eating while you’re watching hundreds of people gamble"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
Because it’s under the same roof as the Hippodrome Casino on Leicester Square, it’s tempting to file Heliot Steakhouse under the same category as tourist magnets like the Hard Rock Café. We’re expecting to be surrounded by holidaymakers, but in fact most of the people here seem to be couples on dates.
The steakhouse is named after Claire Heliot, the fearless lion tamer who performed at the Hippodrome in its original incarnation as a variety theatre. Heliot was known to carry one of her lions off stage draped over her shoulders. It’s hard to believe that it was just over a hundred years ago when it was nothing unusual to see lions and bears on a stage. Now instead the entertainment for the diners is the activity of the casino, as tables are arranged along a mezzanine above.
The main focus of the menu are the steaks. Imported from the US, the beef is grain-fed, available in nine different cuts and sizes and is relatively affordable - the most expensive being the 650g T-bone for £29. The rib eye on the bone is fairly good, but the NY strip is a great piece of meat; the pot of bone marrow sauce ordered on the side goes largely untouched as it’s so full of flavour.
The tuna tartare with white radish is very good, even if the cubed bloody mary jelly sprinkled over the top is a little tasteless; the Millionnaire’s Mac & Cheese, with black truffle, a poached egg and oodles of cream and Parmesan is superb. The sweet potato salad with sumac and yoghurt is a bit of a misnomer as it consists of several cold croquettes with a dollop of fairly bland dressing on each one, and we’re not especially wowed by the dessert, a tart filled with a cold, hard wad of chocolate with a little salted caramel and caramelised orange on the side. However overall the meal is enjoyable and there’s something pretty exciting about eating while you’re watching hundreds of people gamble on the gaming floor.
Leila reviewed Heliot Lounge, Bar & Restaurant on Sun 28 Sep 2014