Name: Lardo
Address: Arthaus Development, Richmond Road, London, Hackney, E8 3NJ, UK
Rating: 8

Hackney Central isn’t renowned for its culinary scene – unless you take into account the excellent ocakbasi restaurants that take up their own little stretch – but with the arrival of Lardo, the area welcomes a touch of class.

The idea is all about the promotion of small taster plates, which means a meal involves a little bit of everything on the menu if you’re with a group greedy enough, sorry, make that experimental enough.

“Italian with a Hackney twist” goes the blurb. Sitting outside the restaurant on a balmy Sunday evening with a bitter lemon cocktail in hand, it’s difficult to find the twist – it’s straight up idyllic Italian. Maybe it’s the odd siren that bleeps in the vicinity. Who knows? Inside, tables are intimately arranged and although it’s hardly huge, neither does it feel cramped – conversations can at least remain private. It is attractive too, a continuation of the NY loft style façade that stretches above its entrance – all part of the same apartment/studio/gallery project finished in early 2012. However, if you don’t take into account the glittering pizza oven in the corner then the real star is the food.

The pizzas are, well, pizzas. They’re good but honestly no better or worse than a host of others to be found Hackney way. Not to say they didn't taste great but the cheese, the veal, the cured meats: incredible.

The arancini – deep-fried risotto balls of spicy flavour - and the burrata – solid mozzarella shell filled with a cream and mozzarella mixture - took the entire meal to the next level. Fresh ingredients that made you take stock of the quality every time you opened your mouth are Lardo’s true touch of class.

Good wine, a fine Negroni and Camden’s Hells Lager by the bottle each support the sharing plates, pizzas and charcuterie admirably.

A meal for four (go with friends) with drinks will cost you in the region of £100 including service – worth every penny.

Lardo

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