"Bombay dining comes to Shoreditch as Dishoom extends eastwards. "Review Rating: Reviewed by T.A.O
Bombay dining comes to Shoreditch as Dishoom extends eastwards.
Located just off Redchurch Street, judging by what’s going on inside, it’s a surprise that this wasn’t Dishoom’s first London location. The super hip interior was made for a street that pairs the restaurant with outfits like Lounge Lover, A.P.C. and Boundary. Stylish is an understatement – the restaurant and bar sprawls across a huge space and fills itself with blackened mirrors, distressed wooden panelling and all manner of design flourishes that will have you double taking over your garlic naan.
The criteria on which you’re measured for a seat isn’t clear – there are stools at the bar, dainty café tables arranged centrally and a lot of intimate tables tucked away in cubby holes and corners. On this occasion, a table for two means straight to a cubbyhole, which is fine but we watched the buzzing bar area jealously.
Clearly, a lot of thought has gone into the décor but when you’re serving the type of food that is prepared with the diligence of slow cooking over 24 hours, details obviously come naturally.
We choose a selection of dishes from the succinct menu and wait for everything to arrive together. First comes the very special house black daal. The dish is slow cooked over a day or so and the blend of flavour is nothing short of exquisite. Accompanied by a moist chicken berry Britannia, the rich creamy texture is given the space it deserves to dominate.
If you’re in the mood for something hearty then the lamb raan bun comes recommended. Taking the lead from the current trend for all things pulled meat, the ‘sandwich’ pairs pulled lamb, marinated over days with a homemade slaw and green chillies. At £12.50 it’s not the cheapest pulled meat roll you’ll find but worth every penny all the same. The spicy, salty meat finds the perfect accompaniment in the Dishoom slaw that comes on the side. This is lip-smackingly good.
Perhaps the most refreshing thing about Dishoom is that you never once feel like you’re paying for the hip environment that is itself within one of Shoreditch’s most hip areas. The food is modestly priced for the quality that comes with it and a meal for two with Kingfisher beers comes in at under £40.00 with service.
We’ll say it again: lip-smackingly good.
T.A.O reviewed Dishoom Shoreditch on Thu 11 Apr 2013