Name: The Perkin Reveller
Address: Tower Wharf, The Wharf at The Tower of London, London, Wapping, EC3N 4AB, UK
Rating: 7

The Perkin Reveller is named after the protagonist of A Cook’s Tale, one of Geoffrey Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. Chaucer himself, aside from writing poems, was also responsible for overseeing the construction of Tower Wharf in the 1300s, where the restaurant is located. This means there are
unparalleled views of Tower Bridge and the Tower of London, a spectacular backdrop for breakfast, which they open for, and for dinnertime when the bridge is lit up.

A huge effort has been made to create a rustic, medieval look (the oak furniture is handcrafted, walls are covered in rough stone, and sconces provide dim lighting) but the result feels more corporate than artisan. Perhaps it’s because for all its faux ruggedness it’s a bit too neat, a bit too measured, and the ample dining area has several banqueting tables that appear to be waiting for office groups to turn up.

Unsurprisingly the menu is British and staunchly traditional, and despite the surrounding area doesn’t smack of tourist fare. We start with Maldon rock oysters, a fairly mild specimen in terms of minerality, and some fantastic crusty bread from the Paul Rhodes Bakery in Notting Hill (who was also a three times Michelin-starred chef once upon a time, fact fans).

The home smoked salmon with capers and lemon is delicious, served at room temperature and slick with olive oil, which brings out its sweetness. The crispy pork and chargrilled squid very nearly gets sent back when a large croquette with salad arrives, but the waitress points out the curly bits of squid hidden among the lettuce and explains that this is in fact the right dish. Confusion over, the herby croquette filled with stringy pork is delicious, the squid is tender and there is far more of it than initially meets the eye.

The dish of the day is baked plaice, a tasty fish sprinkled with capers and served with new potatoes; the oxtail is even more triumphant, with meat so velvety and soft it falls apart effortlessly, with a fruity jus and crunchy carrots. It’s topped with truffle chicken mousse, although its foamy texture is more like baked egg white. The chef must have a fondness for the stuff, as egg white also forms the topping of the broccoli with boiled egg dressing, an unusual side dish.

Eating options within this proximity to Tower Bridge have so far been limited to branches of Strada, The Living Room and Ping Pong, so the Perkin ups the area’s stakes considerably. The terrace, with its magnificent view of the Tower of London, is certain to be a hit on warm days. A three course meal for two with wine is around £100.

The Perkin Reveller

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