"Glitzy steakhouse for the fash pack"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
When STK first opened at the end of 2012, its aim was to be a women-friendly steakhouse. Hotel and restaurant conglomerate The ONE Group highlighted their smaller-than-usual steaks, seafood and salads under the tagline ‘not your daddy’s steakhouse’.
Fast forward to the present day and it seems the ploy hasn’t worked, if the clientele (men alone, in groups, and with glamorous female companions) and the soundtrack are anything to go by (The Rolling Stones, The Jam, Happy Mondays, Blur and Kings of Leon; as the boif puts it, it’s like they’ve put together an ‘Eras of Masculinity’ compilation).
But onto the food. The menu retains the salads, the 150g steaks and the raw bar, but also has T-bone and cowboy steaks. Beef is USDA prime, and as is de rigeur for any steakhouse worth its glitz, there’s also wagyu priced at £50 for 50g. We settle for the wagyu Lil BRGs, two sesame bun sliders filled with minced wagyu patties and burger sauce, one of their bestsellers. These are very nice. Oyster shooters are three oysters with accompanying shots: Bloody Mary with beetroot, passion fruit and champagne, and bourbon and ginger. All are pleasant, but only the earthy, spiced Bloody Mary is a good match for the shellfish.
The cowboy steak is a hefty 750g cooked on the bone, but they cut it off for you (boif sneers: is this to make it easier for girls?) With plenty of marbling, it’s a fair bit of meat. However the confit duck leg with red curry reduction and lychees underwhelms - the duck lacks crispiness and doesn’t work with coconut curry, plus the lychees have had all the flavour cooked out of them. We like the creamy mac and cheese, but the chubby Parmesan truffle chips don’t quite live up to their moreish name.
The ME Hotel, where STK is located, is a gleaming, five star development that’s a favourite with fashionistas, and so STK’s clubby vibe has appeal for beautiful people and voyeurs, but not so much for those who wants to devour a good steak.
Leila reviewed STK on Wed 28 Jan 2015