"More playfully retro food from the people behind the Mall Tavern"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
Parlour feels like it’s a little out of the way; it’s down a narrow residential street off a stretch of the Harrow Road that borders a cemetery. But the neighbourhood is home to many young professionals and families who would live in Notting Hill if they could afford to, and Kensal Green is close enough to benefit from a little W11 stardust. This is all great for Parlour, as this demographic makes up the key market of a gastropub, however that’s not all, for the team in charge are also behind the Mall Tavern
(in Notting Hill), where chef Jesse Dunford Wood’s retro menu has been a big hit.
Some of the same dishes appear here, like cow pie and macaroni cheese. A bowl of popcorn chicken nuggets playfully combines pieces of fried battered chicken with popcorn. There’s mayonnaise on the side, but a bit more seasoning on the nuggets wouldn’t have gone amiss. It’s quite the opposite with the fresh-tasting salad of watercress, lettuce and radishes, paired with delicious crayfish in a creamy dressing.
A smoked salmon fishcake is topped with a poached egg and plenty of Hollandaise, uber-rich, artery-thickening stuff. It’s not all stodge though, the baked darne of plaice (fish cut into a steak across the bone) is firm and well cooked, sprinkled with avruga caviar.
The sweets selection is equally nostalgic, with things like arctic rolls and toasted marshmallow wagon wheels. The latter consists of two cookies coated in chocolate, with a layer of marshmallow that is blowtorched before the biscuits are sandwiched together. As with the rest of the menu, this is fun food for people who have no intention of counting calories.
Leila reviewed Parlour on Wed 21 Nov 2012