"A delicious assault on all the senses"Review Rating: Reviewed by Laurel
With all the new establishments that have opened recently in the Nova complex and Cardinal Place, you’d be forgiven for thinking that was the best Victoria had to offer in terms of dining, but you’d be wrong. Head past the Apollo theatre and swing a left and you’ll come across Tozi, a Venetian-inspired restaurant and bar that, despite its size, somehow manages to feel luxuriously cosy.
With 100 covers it’s not small, but the cleverly designed dining room doesn’t feel crowded; despite it being nearly full on our midweek visit it was buzzing rather than annoyingly loud. With a projector screening old Italian movies on the walls and a chilled vibe to suit its menu of cicchetti, it’s a great spot for a casual catch up.
Speaking of the menu, it’s a good ‘un. Pizzette from the wood oven, a selection of raw dishes like tuna tartare and Angus beef carpaccio, a spread of salads, pastas, soups a several larger dishes to share, not to mention the desserts; go with an empty stomach and time to contemplate. It might take you a while to make a decision on this one. Add to that an extremely comprehensive wine list of over 70 Italian bottles, ranging from £28 to £330, and you’re in for one seriously good meal.
We timed our visit to coincide with the recent truffle menu, and boy am I glad we did. We kicked off with one of the aforementioned pizzette, the Spianata, oozing with four cheeses, gooey potato and black truffle pesto, indulgently cheesy and definitely worth the calories. Zucchini fries were hot and crispy, while a salad of wild mushrooms, endive, quail eggs and truffle was just one deliciously moreish mouthful after another. Buffalo ricotta ravioli, understatedly simple in its execution, drenched in butter and with a hearty helping of black truffle shavings, proved a favourite of the evening. The pièce de resistance however, had to be the braised ox cheek, butter soft a melt in the mouth, accompanied with the creamiest mash.
Leave room for dessert - Lords knows the Italians do them well. The yoghurt meringata, an Eton Mess-esque concoction of frozen yoghurt, meringue, cream and Amarene cherries. It was sublime.
Tozi was a delicious assault on all the senses and a pleasant alternative to some of the brash new haunts Victoria has to offer. This is one place that at once feels authentic and welcoming, with a mouth-watering menu to match.
Laurel reviewed Tozi on Mon 09 Dec 2019