"A what’s what of delicious American fare"Review Rating: Reviewed by Laurel
Having frequented the Soho branch of Jackson & Rye for both breakfast and dinner on several occasions I know any visit through its doors is generally set to be busy and buzzing, both of which are part of its appeal. A visit the week before Christmas however and the balance was tipped ever so slightly out of favour.
For the uninitiated, the menu is a what’s what of delicious American fare; think steaks, juicy burgers and a decent array of sides, accompanied by an excellent cocktail list. Make sure you try the classic Old Fashioned - some of the best in town. Indulging in a trio of starters to share between two of us (hell, that’s what Christmas is all about, right?), the brisket croquettes were dangerously moreish, sweet and smokey with a little mountain of pickled cabbage providing an excellent flavour pairing. The fat creamy burrata with smokey tomato relish and walnut gremolata tasted deeply indulgent, however the jumbo shrimp, served with American cocktail sauce, were quite average and a little on the chilly side, having obviously come straight from a fridge.
I eschewed the fine dining for an evening and instead went for the buttermilk chicken burger - an oldy, but a goody. Dripping in spicy slaw, chipotle mayo and accompanied by crispy fries, it was definitely one of the best I’ve had in a while. Across the table I presume the fillet steak was a hit, given the satisfied noises and exclamations of joy at the béarnaise sauce coming from my friend. Pudding took the form of a slice of their classic pecan pie - very tasty though could have done with being warmed slightly - served with a blob of rather lovely caramel ice cream with bourbon and maple syrup. The warm chocolate fondant, with its oozing melting middle, was a hit, though not for the fainthearted as its a serious hit of richness.
While the food was undoubtedly a hit, the restaurant was packed, the tables so close together that I spent the entire evening feeling like I was on the date of the couple next to me who had no qualms in sharing their love across the table throughout their, and my, meal. It really could have done with one less table squeezed into our row. Add to that the fact that they seemed to be a tad short on staff (we waited over 30 minutes just for our drinks to arrive) and it did put something of a dampener on the evening, not the greatest experience. Nevertheless, the food speaks for itself; non fuss, no nonsense hearty American cooking. Certainly still worth your visit, perhaps just pick your table carefully.
Laurel reviewed Jackson & Rye on Mon 08 Jan 2018