"One of Britain’s finest chefs ventures into casual dining"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
Marcus Wareing is best known for his TV appearances and upmarket restaurants in luxury hotels, but with Tredwell’s he ventures into the casual dining market for the first time.
Tredwell’s is much bigger than it appears on first sight, as there are 130 covers spread out over three floors. The site was once owned by Asian fusion restaurant Kyashii, however they’ve done a very good job at redesigning the space so you’d never know there was once a blinging, VIP club-style restaurant here once upon a time. Gone are the giant fish tanks and trashy neon lights to be replaced by a buzzy, sleek yet informal eatery backed by Mr Wareing, albeit without his input in the kitchen.
Most dishes are available as small or large portions, two of us are comfortably full after six small plates. We like the crunchy charred snowpeas with a rich olive dip, and the polenta chips with smoky tomato salsa. Grilled squid with courgette, peppers and bottarga, and confit cod with sweet potato mash are also very good, but the standout dish are the sliders stuffed with melt-in-the-mouth pulled pork, apple and ginger. Only the smoked chicken croquettes served with spicy mayo suffer a little from being too salty.
The desserts are some of the best we’ve tasted in a while – a chocolate pot topped with Campari-flavoured crushed ice is a superb combination, and the avocado and white chocolate sprinkled with chia seeds and chocolate cornflakes is a novel take on chocolate mousse.
There is a lot to like about Tredwell’s, with accessible prices and heaps of allergen information on the menus being two other plus points. If this is the first of more affordable restaurants to come from Wareing, that’s a very good thing indeed.
Leila reviewed Tredwell's on Sun 28 Sep 2014