"Beef & Brew proves that cheaper cuts of meat can beat the more expensive ones"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
Beef & Brew’s theme is to choose hanger and rump steaks over fillet and sirloin, giving
you more value for your pound. And as the name suggests, beer is also used in many of the recipes. This new neighbourhood restaurant in Kentish Town comes with an impressive pedigree: head chef Jessica Simmons previously worked with Angela Hartnett at Murano and Whitechapel Dining Rooms.
The menu is concise, with just two starters: cheese and cauliflower croquettes, which ooze hot melted cheese, and brisket and jam croquettes. Both are deep fried, which you can’t really go wrong with.
The hanger steak however, is very special. Ruby-red in the middle, it’s supremely tender, juicy and full of flavour. It’s not too much of a superlative to say this rivals Hawksmoor in terms of quality, and priced at £10 makes it an extremely serious competitor too.
The French dip bun is just as good, made with short-rib beef and served with a generous helping of gravy to dip it into. You pour it from one of those quaint porcelain cows that tend to make an appearance at Christmas meals.
Sides are well above the average of mere side dishes. Charred broccoli aromatised with plenty of garlic, a twist on mac ‘n’ cheese made with gnocchi instead of pasta, and huge polenta wedges fried with Parmesan and rosemary. For dessert we share a Brewers’ Mess, a chocolate brownie layered with salted caramel and porter sauce.
Naturally the drinks list concentrates on beer, with the local India Hells from Camden Brewery, Fourpure Pils brewed in Bermondsey, and beers from Irish Harviestoun. They also offer beer flights to share.
On the night we visit the restaurant has been open just over two weeks, but it’s packed from the moment we arrive at 730 till we leave two hours later. In fact as soon as one table empties it quickly fills up again, and you’ll be please to know they take bookings. Here is proof that with skill in the kitchen cheaper cuts of meat can beat more expensive dishes hands down.
Leila reviewed Beef & Brew on Thu 15 Oct 2015Review disclosure: reviewer was invited to review