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Victory Mansion

International Restaurant in Stoke Newington
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8 / 10 from 1 review
Address
18 Stoke Newington High Street
Stoke Newington
London
N16 7PL
Map
History
Telephone
020 3441 6900
Cuisine
International
Region
Stoke Newington
Nearest Station
Rectory Road
0.27 miles
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Set apart from the local late-night dives, one of the best bars in North-East London, this place has a big personality; it’s a new bar and well worth a visit and with former Ottolenghi Chef Sam Browne-Wilkinson in charge of the kitchen, expect exciting food to boot!

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Victory Mansion Picture

All In London Review

A superior menu among Stoke Newington's hip bars

Review Image
At first look Victory Mansion has all the signs of a typically trendy Stoke Newington drinking hole. Through the dim lighting our eyes are drawn to the bar, where bartenders sporting customary long beards are mixing up cocktails to a soundtrack of soul and reggae. But there's a menu with small plates like "tea smoked quail, juniper aioli, pickled cucumber, braeburn apple", modestly priced at £7.

Food arrives as it's ready. There's a pleasant dish of gently charred leeks drizzled with agave and chilli yoghurt, served with crispy quinoa. There's supremely tender octopus, tentacles and all, mixed in with shredded orange and fennel, plus slices of candied garlic that add heat. Plump, juicy mussels are cooked in a creamy sauce of celeriac, green pepper and celery, which we eagerly scoop up with bread.

Then there's the meat. The above mentioned tea-smoked quail has been filleted to save valuable bone-picking time, and the meat is rosy and falls apart. It comes with aioli (a little heavy on the olive oil) made with juniper, and a lovely slaw of pickled cucumber and apple. The other carnivorous dish is lamb chops, soft and coated in sticky, savoury treacle with crumbled anchovies, a smart pairing of flavours.

Five dishes are enough for the two of us, and given the low prices this is a bargain. For the wine list they've thoughtfully chosen the wallet-friendly best - the Douro, despite being the cheapest red, is bold and spicy, the Grigio has far more going on than your average white Pinot.

Cocktails are just as savvy. Clearly put together by a fan of Hunter S. Thompson, they're grouped under titles like 'gonzo' and 'beatnik'. We try the Perks of Gin & Elderflower, which boasts a kick despite its citrus notes, and the Raoul Duke, a very strong Bourbon-based drink comparable to an Old Fashioned that we're sure Duke/Thompson would have been quite partial to.

Reviewed by Leila anonymously on Apr 21, 2016
Published on Apr 21, 2016

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