"Street XO’s menu is one of creativity"Review Rating: Reviewed by Laurel
Descending the gilded staircase into the subterranean rabbit hole that is Street XO, the first thought is that perhaps it’s more suited to a Friday night than the Sunday lunchtime we visited. The Mayfair restaurant, from the ‘enfant terrible’ of Spanish cuisine Dabiz Muñoz (of Diver XO, the only Madrid restaurant three Michelin stars) is a buzzing basement with low lighting, pounding beats and plenty of Instagram fodder. It’s a cool space, perhaps a little too cool, and both the restaurant and bar were packed with chic Sunday diners.
While the cocktail list is much praised, we instead chose a glass of crisp white wine while the concept and menu were explained to us; essentially this is Asian-fusion tapas, with a menu of fascinating flavour combinations. The £45 Lunch Tasting Menu, available Tuesday to Sunday, at picks the best bits of the extensive menu, or if you’re feeling particularly gluttonous (and spendy) then go a la carte for a real feast.
Their ramen of foie gras and barbecued guinea fowl with black trompette mushrooms was sublime; perfectly umami and easily something I could eat every day. A twist on fish and chips arrived on a sheet of paper, comprising Hamachi Usuzukuri carpaccio with a fiery aji Amarillo sauce, yuzu and a paper thin slices of potato in place of a chip. A delicious combo but something of a faff to scoop up off the paper; nice touch, though I’d prefer it on a plate.
The only thing wrong with the Steamed XO Club Sandwich was its size. One bite and the suckling pig, ricotta, quail egg and chilli mayonnaise was all but gone, albeit never forgotten. It was one dish we’ll certainly be back for. Make sure to order one. The Galician grilled octopus was delicious, though the accompanying chilmole was a more acquired taste and we absolutely loved the croquettes, finished with kimchi, sheep’s milk, wild salmon, trout roe and Lapsang Souchong tea. Dessert was exceptional; a box of luxurious ice cream, slivers of mango, fruity coulis, sticky popcorn and popping candy. It was divinely delicate and just the palate cleanser required.
While a couple of the flavour combos might have been a tad off the mark, Street XO’s menu is one of creativity although the pumping vibe might not be for everyone.
Laurel reviewed StreetXO on Mon 21 May 2018