"It’s a fun, informal place that is clearly expert at oysters and sea food"Review Rating: Reviewed by KimT
A former work colleague is a regular here and he suggested it as a venue for when a few of us met up for a leisurely catch up lunch.
It’s an interesting traditional place – it opens right up onto a narrow pavement overlooking the bustle of Borough Market. There are high tables and stools which are cool at the front. Against all of the numerous bar areas there is seating and metal holders for your food. It’s an ideal place for lone dining. As you progress further inside it becomes warmer – and as the weather was so hot when we visited - the proximity to the open kitchens made it almost unbearable.
However, we sat up against one of the wooden tables and surveyed all the blackboards around us advising us of the day’s specials. The menu was unusual but short – Fruits de Mer, Rock Oysters, Oyster Specials, Kitchen, Sides and Desserts. We choose a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc (£39.50) and requested a large carafe of water. Our colleague arrived – telling us a little about the restaurant’s past – and urged us to try some oysters. What was that about eating oysters in months without a “R” in them?
His swift choice was Japanese (three for £9 – with soya, ginger and washabi – our Sri Lankan cook colleague felt that they could have been bolder with the amount of washabi), New Orleans (three for £9.50 – deep fried and served with tartare sauce) and his favourite the Rockefellas (three for £9.50 and baked with spinach). Both my colleagues liked the oysters but for me they remain an acquired taste that I still haven’t acquired.
Be warned – they do not provide chips or fries here but new potatoes and a variety of salads are on the menu. The tomato and onion salad (£4.75) contained tiny cherry tomatoes and the merest hint of onion and the dressing was so light it was hardly noticeable.
One of my colleagues choose the small portion of Moules Mariniere (£9.75) and was content to eat the large, plump shellfish with a basket of bread. I love Moules but for me they have to come with chips – too much time spent in Brussels perhaps. He felt there could have been more wine – or was that cream – in the sauce. Meanwhile, we had chosen the dressed Cornish crab (£18) which was well prepared with egg and nicely presented. A good size too.
Our Czech Republic waitress was friendly and attentive and was so bold as to challenge my companion’s choice of Picpoul de Pinet (£31). He went ahead anyway – only to find it was somewhat sweeter than he remembered in France. The waitress’ recommended Sancerre (£45) was perfect.
It’s a fun, informal place that is clearly expert at oysters and sea food. But I felt it was expensive and the heat really was rather too much. But I may return on a cooler day to sample some other fish delights there.
KimT reviewed Wright Bros Oyster House on Tue 05 Aug 2014