"One of Mayfair’s best-kept secrets"Review Rating: Reviewed by Laurel
To be honest Mews of Mayfair is one of those places that leaves you a little bit torn; it’s so damn good you can’t help but want to tell the world and his dog about it, though a tiny little part of you will also want to keep it schtum to avoid the oversaturation that’s come along with so many of London’s hyped-up eateries. Luckily for you the little angel on my shoulder told me to do the right thing…
Situated in the cobbled nightspot that is Lancashire Court, just of Brook Street, it’s admittedly an area I haven’t visited since the delicious Rocket closed its doors a few years back. Spread over four floors, Mews was founded by London entrepreneur James Robson back in 2006. With slickly sophisticated décor and 18th century converted Mews house setting , it feels like you’re stepping into one of London’s chicer members’ clubs, without the hefty fees.
Upon arrival my guest and I sampled a couple of the particularly delicious signature cocktails in the ground floor bar before heading up to dinner. It would be rude not to on a Friday evening…
The first floor brasserie managed to be elegant and yet pleasantly low-key; scrubbed pine tables with fresh spring flowers upon them gave an air of somewhere far more casual than the depths of Mayfair, though the crisp linen napkins and perfectly attentive wait staff reminded us of where we were.
Plumping for a spot of seafood to start, we enjoyed a plate of absolutely spectacular oysters, fresh and salty, and a fully dressed juicy Devonshire crab, quite the most delicious I’ve tried. For my main I jumped at the day’s special of red mullet served with beetroot puree, red chard, walnut gnocchi and truffle sauce; an absolutely divine combination of flavours – the gnocchi in particular was to die for, I could have eaten a whole plate of just that. My guest went for a Mews burger with triple cooked chips (almost as good as proper Belgian triple cooked chips…) and we indulged in a side of properly cosy mac and cheese. It had to be done. Dinner was accompanied by a bottle of very good Pouilly Fuisse ‘Vieilles Vignes’, upon the recommendation of the manager and quite the nicest wine I’ve had in a long while.
Though pleasantly stuffed by our delicious feast there was of course room for dessert, and thank God there was; we ended in some kind of pudding-induced haze but whatever was on the plate involved plenty of very dark chocolate and salted caramel and was a spectacular finish.
Where Mews really comes alive is after dinner however, as we headed down to the basement lounge for plentiful fruity cocktails and raucous dancing to noughties R&B until the wee hours. One of Mayfair’s best-kept secrets, Mews undoubtedly manages to be chic and feel exclusive without the pretentiousness of some of its counterparts. You should go there. Just not too often. And don’t tell everyone about it, ok?
Laurel reviewed Mews Of Mayfair on Mon 17 Mar 2014