"Best chips in London?"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
The two guys behind The Hour Glass also run Brompton Food Market, a greengrocer, fishmonger, deli and butcher all under one roof. The all-British produce (fish from Cornwall, meat from Yorkshire farms, etc) is what fills the menu at this dining room above a pub.
The room may be a little too bright, and it can get quite noisy, particularly given that there’s a group next to us in a very jovial mood, but we quickly forget about all this. A rabbit terrine set with a layer of bacon butter is very tasty, served with toast, gherkins, and plump caper berries. The other starter is crispy, garlicky sprouting broccoli, sprinkled with toasted pumpkin seeds, and with slices of pickled pumpkin and a large helping of burrata.
There’s plenty of game on the menu, as it’s in season. A wonderful whole smoked partridge worthy of Instagram has been carefully sliced to reveal the meat, with its legs splayed apart. It’s served with mash potato, along with pickled blackberries and red cabbage. It gives me instant food envy, not that my main isn’t good - Cornish brill with creamy Jerusalem artichoke puree, juicy mussels, and dulse, a type of seaweed.
The chips are fantastic and puts most other eateries’ offerings to shame. They’re fat, triple cooked in beef dripping, crispy, and fluffy on the inside. When we mention it to the waiter he agrees, adding that most diners comment on them.
When the chocolate and porter cake arrives it provokes gasps of admiration from our neighbours, who then order the same. It comes with ice cream and a slither of crisped honeycomb, which reminds us of cinder toffee. The buttermilk pudding is a bit like panacotta, with roasted pears flavoured with rosemary, and shortbread.
A great pit stop on Brompton Road, in well-heeled South Kensington.
Leila reviewed The Hour Glass on Mon 23 Nov 2015Review disclosure: reviewer was invited to review